Conversion Related

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This page will relate to information specific to fitting a VW Diesel TDI Engine into a vanagon. If applicable to an AAZ that's mentioned too.


Reference Material

Here is my YouTube playlist of videos to this page. There's not as many videos as I initially thought. I think videos can move a bit quick and allow a miss of detail. That and uploading a large video over mifi is a challenge ;)

Part Reference

1982 VW Vanagon - Part Information - CS/JX
1983 VW Vanagon - Part Information JX
1997 VW Passat Engine (AHU)

TDI Conversion Kits

Zombie Motors

Part Vendors

Oem Wolf
Auto Haus AZ
ID Parts TDI Parts Source
Bora Parts
Jim Ellis
T3 Technique
PartsPlace Inc
TechTonics Tuning
Rocky Mountain Westy (RMW)
Jags That Run
Canada Catalyst
Thomas @ Quality German Autoparts (QGA)
Scott @ US Rally Team

Conversion Part Vendors
Berd Jager TDI Conversion parts
Epytec DS Engine Bracket

Service Manuals

VW; File:VW-W42-011-294-103B.pdf
Bentley; ISBN 10: 0837603668
File:Alh aaz ahh ahu 1z 1 9.pdf

Social Media & Forums

Social Media

FaceBook has most of those groups

Vanagon Owners Group - Overly moderated and free speech/thought is NOT encouraged.
Diesel Powered Vanagons
VW T3 TDI Club Facebook Group
TDI Club
Betsy's mTDI Conversion Thread
TDI Parts List
1.9TD AAZ Engine Rebuild
Yahoo Diesel Vanagon Group
Yahoo TDI-conversion
VW T3 TDI Facebook Group
Follow The Wind Blog involving AC to TDI Swap
Syncroincity AAZ into 86 Syncro @ 50
Club 80-90 1Z in Vanagon
82' AHU conversion
Andy Bee's ALH in an 84

Diesel Vanagon/T3/T25 Donor List

Most of this is covered in detail further down the page

This is a list of items that you will need to source from an 82' or 83' USA diesel Vanagon or look over the pond at T3s to fit a 1z/AHU engine

  • Diesel Vanagon oil-pan & oil filler tube as also oil-pump
  • Diesel Vanagon Transmission Bell Housing to allow 50 degree mounting
  • Diesel Vanagon Transmission Flywheel & Clutch (to later identify the TDI TDC mark)
  • Diesel Vanagon engine mount brackets; mostly the passenger side mount bracket. You may decide to change the driver side mount for clearing a larger turbo than a K03 or K03 hybrid.

Performance Parts

50deg layout Specifics

The real magic here is in the 82' diesel vanagon oil-pan as the oil-pump used in the 82' 1.6na diesel vanagon.

Oil Pan

This section will include details on swapping the 1.6na DV oil-pan for a 50 degree install, as also the 4cyl windage tray for it. At the same time we'll be swapping in an 82' diesel oil-pump to get the desired plunge shaft length. It is recommended getting a new oil-pump to make sure no premature failures, as newer DV pumps (BP code) have the necessary TDI plunge diameter.

NOTE: You must leave the oil-pan loose and mate to the transmission first THEN once the transmission is mounted tighten up the oil-pan along the edge level to the block. In addition, there are TWO bolts near the flywheel that are hard to reach. You'll need to rotate the flywheel and use the elongated space to tighten those two bolts. Make sure to dab a little bit of loctite on those two bolts. You do NOT want them coming loose by accident.


  • VW; W42-011-294-103B 13-12


  • 13mm socket 6point

DV Pan swap to AHU

Its as recommended to get longer oil-pan screws for the windage tray, but the stock 1.6na CS engine DV pan comes with the following 20 bolt size M6x22

Get M6X25 for clearing the windage tray @ 10Nm or 7ft/lbs. VW specs a good bolt for this p/n N10302402

These should be tightened to 7ft/lbs

Now for the actual windage tray itself. It was included with the AAZ and sometimes with the 1Z and AHU engines, but was more common in the gasser inline 4's. It was NOT part of the 1.6na engine.

That said, my 1Z came with a windage tray, but sometimes the sealant is so bad it fucks the seal up and you'll need to get a new one.

The Windage Tray P/N is: 037115220B

DV Oil Pump Swap

You need to use the DV oil-pump NOT the AHU oil-pump; unless you modify it by moving the DV pickup to the AHU oil pump.


  • Bentley 17-1 - 1Z / AHU specific
  • VW W42-011-294-103B p17-6

Once you have the oil-pan off the AHU you'll see the oil-pump. However, if you're long-block is like mine it may have a windage tray installed.


  • 068-115-105BP

AHU Windage Tray Installed


Now you'll see the oil-pump as the silver device with the black tray delay off to the left. This is the oil pump you need to swap.

Here is the AHU (black pickup) oil-pump vs a new DV oil-pump (all metal)

AHU CS oil-pump-comparison.jpg

You'll see two bolts (black heads for me) where my fingers point. These will remove the oil-pump (13mm)

AHU oil pump removal.jpg

When installing the DV oil-pump the two pump bolts get torqued at 20Nm

NOTE: The AHU oil-pump bolts are LONGER than the DV oil-pump bolts. If you do not have the original DV Oil Pump bolts you need to get two of either of the following P/Ns: N01037510 or N0103753 with the spring-washers N0122265

Installing Oil Pump & Windage Tray

See the note above about final tightening that happens AFTER the transmission has been mated to the engine! When ready to tighten, use blue thread locker for the bolts. It helps keep everything snug.

I've seen two types of AHU windage trays. OEM and from Victor Reinz. The VR ones are slightly larger where they can with caution and care fit over the DV oil-pump. The OE ones do not.

I just suggest installing the pump first (the bolts will be 13mm tigten to 20Nm) and with blue thread tocker. At that point you can let the windage tray hold on the pump like this


Then put on the oil-pan with the bolts hand-tighten / semi loose, as to protect the pump. You should have something like this

NOTE: The down-pipe isn't in the proper orientation. I didn't know better at the time of this photo. It's an unessary detail unless it caught your eye to; wtf?

MTDI AHU loosebolted-DV pan.jpg

Cooling System


Coolant System - THIS allows the heart to beat and not overheat and die. It's ESSENTIAL to be in tip-top condition! Your diesel Vanagon's coolant system is HOW old? And you want to do WHAT type of conversion? Do this first if you haven't already!

Head Gasket

If replacing the headgasket it is recommended to update your headbolts to ARP studs. I mean you're already there!



1 hole

028-103-383BB - 1.53mm

2 hole

028-103-383BC - 1.57mm

3 hole

028-103-383BD - 1.61mm


1 hole

028-103-383BP - 1.53mm

2 hole

028-10-3383BQ - 1.57mm

3 hole

028-103-383BR - 1.61mm Victor Renz in Germany. Victor Reinz Part Number: 54435, 61-33120-50.

Aux Oil Cooler

1.6na - 1.9tdi capable



Choose an Oil Cooler:

1x 028117021E - oil cooler V6 4Motion Cooler - Good for Stock AHU engines
  • 1x 028117070B - oem cooler seal. The febi one sucked
1x 038117021B - oil cooler for a 2.0 TDI engine - Good for Enhanced AHU Engines
  • 1x 038117070B - oem cooler seal.

Get the tube & nut; same for both O/Cs

1x 028115721B - union tube
1x 068115723 - hexagon nut; ADC,AAZ,ABA,; AHU,1Z


This is pretty simple just slide it over the (028115721B - union tube) into the oil-filter assembly. The ports will face left of the engine indicated in the photo below. If you look at the top of the cooler and inside the flange you'll see the 'oil' feed line hole. Those basically need to match up.

Then place the oil-cooler over it and attach with the (068115723 - hexagon nut)


End result:


This is what a 2.0 TDI O/C with Karl's moddification done installed looks like:

PD130TDI OC.jpg

Aux Oil-Cooler Modification

The default DV aux oil-cooler doesn't allow for constant flow of coolant. Only when the thermostat opens.

This is kinda silly since all the newer diesels implemented a better setup.

Therefore, this SHOULD be REQUIRED for all DV owners.


TheSamba - Karl M. @ WestyVentures
TheSamba - OutWesty restated the above


Seeing is believing like they say. It also helps visualize what has to happen. This was indeed the case with me!

Karl M. @ Westy Ventures drew this up to explain what's required for the modification that he explains in TheSamba post.

Karl M-WestyVentures-DV OilCooler modification.jpg

For the Tee you can search ebay for sometrhing along: Coolant Hose T Fitting Radiator Hose T Fitting Hose Splice 1" X 1" X 5/8" VW has one under p/n N90693001

Which should look like this:

DV aux oil mod Tee.jpg

If you prefer a Y based solution, go to Heater Craft

For attaching the hoses make sure to use rolled-edge SS clamps, as they don't cut into the hose as traditional hose-clamps do.

Fot the 1/4” restrictor you can use a fender washer with a 1/4" hole and a 1.25" OD


Engine Electrical

Because this is a lot of media I will break this into sub pages

eTDI Study



Good information for an AHU setup

TheSamba - Simplified TDI electronics for AHU conversion ?


Injection Pumps

Came in two variations :

  • 10mm head - manual transmission
  • 11mm head - automatic transmission

Engine Mechanical

Injection Pumps

There's a few builders, I suggest finding one that you feel comfortable with who you get warm fuzzies from.

VWDiesel FAQ

Also posting on their FaceBook Group

Injection Pump Builders

Giles Also has a great reputiation

Dieselmeken AB Also has a great reputiation

PartsPlace Inc. ask for Larry

WestyVentures - Karl M. has a reputation of building mTDI pumps based off a 4BT Cummins VE Injection Pump

Many hobbyists also use a Land Rover 300TDI Injection Pump modded setup. William Roberts on the TDI FB groups is popular person to obtain a LR300TDI

Possible 4bt pumps that would need modding; 0460424049, 0460424078

The pump I obtained was from Westy Ventures.

AVOID: HANs aka Prothe which has had more junk than any VW vendor

Injection Pump DYI


TDIClub - mechanical pump - Need clarification on using a 4BT Injection Pump for a MTDI


TDIClub - building a tdi-m rover pump - Want to build an m-TDI how?


A mTDI injection pump is really simple to tune!

You just need:

These two for IP fuel screw & nut

  • 13mm wrench
  • 6mm wrench fuel screw adj (CW = more fuel)

These for idle nut

  • 10mm deep socket
  • 1/4" rachet
  • 1/4" rachet extension
  • 1/4" rachet swivel head

This for idle screw adj (CW = more idle)

  • Long Flat Head Screw Driver

This is for boost controller (MBC)

  • Allen key for your Master Boost Controller (MBC)
  • Ganja


Engine Carrier Bars & Brackets

1.6na - 1.9tdi capable

Ah carrier bars. So, there's the 82' style which was an one-off in the USA and then 83+ which was when the engine got pushed back roughly 2" towards the rear to accomodate for a longer WBX transmission.

When you have an 82' diesel, it make sense to keep that arrangement. It's also been argued by some the 82' style allows easier access for working on the engine, as it's not 2" closer to the rear.

Upgraded 82' Bars

It's known that the 82' bars provide more vibration which some will argue. Myself when I researched the interwebz the general consensus was that they are not as good with vibrations compared to the newer 83' style carriers. Most people don't even notice a real difference. However, with my physical health, I will do whatever I can to make it more comfy.

Also, the cross-member that connects the two carriers that goes over the oil-pan is a very weak link. I have read where others have used a stonger tube bar to help it from twisting over. Because the 83' carriers don't have the rubber bushings on the ends there's no requirement for the cross member bar.

That said, I went with 83' style bars, but just not ANY 83' bars though, Tony @ TSI-Engeering found on TheSamba makes. He also makes a 50' degree DS mount to clear the turbo. I didn't realize that when I bought my DS mount.

I got a set of his 83' 2WD Carrier bars and then moved the motor brackets (had him lightly mark them where he installs) and then moved it towards the front of the van 2". It mounted perfectly!

I then installed his Isolator Mounts which use VW P/N 357199402BMY (Meyle has a better fitment with the isolator bracket I've read).

This allows for a more modern and easily found engine mount; searches will present it as a motor/transmission mount. It appears it was more widely used as a transmission mount.


  • Tony @ TSI Engineering 2WD Carrier Bar Reference Document

TSI Engineering Carrier Bar Install Doco.jpg

TSI Carrier Install

Bars Installed

TSI Eng carrier installed.jpg

Bracket View

TSI Eng carrier-mount-b.jpg

Front Carrier Mount (no rubber!)

TSI Eng carrier-mount.jpg


Driver Side Mount

This has a little more 'wiggle' room with part variations

There's essentially two washers and one bolt per mounting point (4 mounting points).

  • 4x N01024222 (M8X25) or N0102478 (M8X35) based on fitment
  • 4 x N01224111 - spring washer
  • 4 x N01152520 - washer
  • 1 x N10155207 - M10 nut
Passenger Mount
  • 3 x N0102584 - bolt
  • 3 x N0122422 - washer
  • 3 x N01152711 - spring washer
  • 1 x N10155207- M10 nut

Driver Side Bracket

If you use a larger turbo you'll need to fabricate a bracket that'll fit it.

There are options though:


Driver Side

Driver Side Stock 82' Diesel Vanagon engine bracket

DV driverside engine bracket.jpg

Passenger Side

Passenger Side Stock 82' Diesel Vanagon engine bracket

DV passenger engine bracket.jpg

Engine Mounts

1.6na - 1.9tdi capable

Generally speaking, if you plan to have a larger turbo than a K03 or K03/04 hybrid such as a GT2052 or VNT20 turbo, you'll need to modify the driver side motor mount.

One can be custom made if fabrication skills exist. Or one can buy something already available and modify it to suit your needs. When I started my project, I didn't have fabrication skills as I later developed.

Driver Side Engine Mount Options


I ended up purchasing the Epytec motor mount which is stout and works out of the box for a K03 / VNT15 turbo.

However, it has it's flaws which are easily corrected if done right.

The two issues with this motor mount are

1.) They bent and shaped the mount properly, but failed to fill the bend/divets with weld filler to prevent cracks.

The photos below help show what I'm talking about.


2.) The bracket has a hump which is pointless that I see. It hits all the larger wastegate turbos. The area circled Epytec-Bracket-b.jpg

Hack off the hump!


Now put something thick in it's place that's not as high up! This is raw to give an idea of what to do. After you weld something clean it up and repaint!


The change I did gave me a 0.25" of space between the wastegate and the mount. Perfect!

Engine Isolator Mounts


One method I was looking at was using SAAB Hydraulic mounts as seen here

Frank Grunthaner SAAB Hydraulic mount setup - rsxr - Saab engine mounts

I then discovered Tony Sanchez (TSI Engineering) who makes Syncro and 2wd 83+ carrier bars.

Now, this got me thinking about what the differences between 82' and 83' style carrier bars.

The newer 83+ bars move the motor brackets that are welded on the carrier bars back towards the rear of the van. This was done to allow for longer transmissions in the later years.

However, no one makes 82' style new carrier bars. To me the newer style is ideal for the following reasons:

  • They are solid mounted at the end of the carriers and not rubber NLA (yet supposedly accesible) bushings
  • There is no need for a cross member across the oil-pan to help 'stablize' it.
  • Supposedly the newer bars help reduce vibration which for a diesel is high on my list.

I have a set of TSI Engineering bars, which I plan to remove the motor bracket mounts and move them in position as where they would be on the 82'


1.9td - 1.9tdi capable

One thine to note about transmissions.

1980 - 1982 - Vanagons placed the engine roughly 1.75" forward in earlier vans
1983 - 1991 - Vanagons placed the engine roughly 1.75" further rear compared to earlier vans.

This is primarly due to the transmission nose cones being different as such using different transmission mounts. And well different transmissions ;) 091 vs 094


If starting with an 82' diesel origionally, you should upgrade the 3rib transmission or expect to blow shit up early on.

The easiest upgrade path for an 82' diesel vanagon is getting a DK transmission and putting the diesel vanagon bell housing on it.


DK 091 (80-82 air-cooled Vanagon transmission).

WBX Transmission

If you have a later year (1983) Vanagon or newer it makes sense to stick to the 094 WBX transmission, as they are more stout than a 091 DK transmission.

You also won't need to adapt the transmission mount and linkage to fit the earlier setup.

However, due to the engine placement, which is based off the carrier bars. You have a few options here:

  • Get 1983 DV Carrier bars from Tony at TSI
  • Modify 1982 DV Carrier bars
  • FAS Carrier Bar setup
  • Go Custom!

Flipped Audi 5spd



This still kinda new, but to give some reading.

Brick-yard - Audi A4 Passat gear box install

Tranny Upgrade Notes

The TDI will not have any difficulty cruising at 3500rpms or even a bit higher. The only downsides are noise and a bit of a drop in fuel economy. If your preference is to cruise at 65, then gear 3,000 @ 65MPH. With that gearing you will be able to cruise at 70-75MPH if need be and will still be high enough in the rpms @ 65 to develop enough HP for cruising with a 'cushion'.

"Max torque on a stock TDI is around 2200 RPM. Max hp is around 3800 RPM. The TDI seems happiest in a Vanagon between 2600 and 2800 RPM. You are above the max torque, but well below the max hp. Your gearing and tires will dictate what speed that is." - Mark Ward - The Samba.

In this ratio, I would think a Westy would be more the range of 2700-2900rpm to account for the extra weight; ~700lbs last I heard!

Till a better place linkage differences here

Transmission Gear Calculator / Ratios

VW Gear Ratio


Here are some good calculators:

Tire Size Calculator

Transmission Gear Calculator

091 Transaxle to Engine Mounting



So, there's a ton of slang in this portion of the engine. Why? I don't know, people must be fucking bored.

Service Manual | Slang | Abbv.
Clutch Release Bearing | Throw Out Bearing | TOB
Needle Bearing | Pilot Bearing | NB / PB


These should ideally be replaced if going through the trouble of redoing a transmission:

056105313C = needle bearing
091141165D = clutch release bearing or a more modern p/n 113141165B
016141181 = clutch release bearing guide tube, if needed

Mounting Bits

If you're transfering your DV components for the conversion, KEEP your diesel bell housing bolts that go into the engine.

If you're in Europe you can get the bolts from BrickWerks

If you're like myself in the USA, and starting with no previous DV parts to work with finding those bolts can be a real PITA. Fortunately, I got an awesome reply from syncroserge with the following information:

All bolts, no studs. ETKA is both inaccurate and incomplete on this. The starter bolts are in: Electrical Systems, Starter and Single Parts, diesel eng.

2x M12 x 1,75 x 122mm, N 040 350 1

The one on the clutch slave has no washer.

On the other side of starter washer is:

A13 x 24 x2,5 , N 011 531 7

For the rest of the block. in Engine, Clutch, look under cylinder block with pistons, oil sump

Then next 2 are:

M12 x 1,75 x 80mm, N 010 464 4, both with same washer as above.

At bottom of block,

M12 x 1,75 x 100mm, N 010 458 2, washer same as above, nut:
M12 x 1,75, N 011 030 4

Two bolts from bellhousing to oil pan (never found those in ETKA):

M10 x 1,5 x 65mm, N 010 465 9, both with washers:
A10,5 x 21 x 2, N 011 527 11

Clutch Cross Shaft Installation

The transmission didn't have a Cross Shaft when sent to AA, so we need to install one.

There are two available Cross Shafts that you can get from Weddle:

I went with the HD after reading about a Subaru H3 using it and others saying it's beefier than the OE from their visual inspection.

You'll also want parts


Lightly grease the bushing and teeth of the shaft when installed without the TOB it'll look like:

Betsy Clutch Cross Shaft.jpg

Now, we're ready to install the TOB. Use a light coast of grease inside the TOB where it slips over the shaft. Make sure to slide it over in this orientation and then use a flat head screw-driver to pry the springs around the hooks:

Betsy TOB Install.jpg


Betsy TOB Installed.jpg

Transmission Mount

This is the best time to install a T3 Transmission Mount (74mm)

There is NO easy way to remove the old bushing. I drilled holes, sawed, cut, etc. I eventually got the damn thing out. You'll want the end result like this:


Inner ring removed

DV TransMount Inner Ring Removed.jpg


T3 DV TransMount Installed.jpg

Clutch Slave Cylinder

I replaced my Clutch Slave Cylinder while I was swapping the tranny out. I figured it was a smart move. It's P/N 251.721.263 and available at Van-Cafe

Removing the old slave-cylinder can be a real PITA. Removing the line from the cylinder even more so! Use a torch on the flar nut, let it cool spray penetrating oil, and repeat a few times tapping the flare-nut with a hammer. Eventually it'll come off OR do the flare-nut on the other end of the line.


TDI Clutch Upgrade

1.9td - 1.9tdi capable

TDI Input Shaft

USA best to get it through Chris @ T3Technique

Modified Bernd Jager TDI input shaft



TDI Flywheel Cover Plate

Bernd Jager TDI flywheel cover plate

Clutch Choices

Sachs SMF

Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit - slightly more torque

LUK DMF (17-050)

LUK 17-050 - less vibration

This can be done on an AAZ or TDI (1Z, AHU, ALH) engines in a 50deg setup with a diesel vanagon bellhousing.

Marking TDC On the DMF

There's going to be two hurdles:

  • Making clearance for the DMF flywheel with the diesel bell-housing
  • Getting the proper TDC mark on the TDI Flywheel.

Get a modified TDI input shaft from Chris @ T3 Technique (ask him) or buy from Brickwerks here (input-shaft-t3-tdi) installed onto your transmission.

TDC The Engine before proceeding

First cover the input shaft and Clutch Cross Shaft with masking tape. Then do a light spray of white spray paint inside the bell-housing. A very light spray. Then let that dry.

The Diesel Vangon Flywheel & Pressure plate have what you need to do this. The Pressure Plate will have a V indicating where TDC should be set


Now, I installed the DV pressure plate & flywheel to the AHU engine. Here's a photo of the flywheel installed (forgot to do one with the PP on it). Remember the PP showen above has the V which is what we want to get TDC of the Crank Shaft

DV Flywheel on AHU.jpg

You'll at this point when the crank turns freely you'll want to mount up the DMF flywheel to the engine. Then mount up the tranny with the Bell Housing to the engine.

Once that's mated, try turning the crank. You "should" have interference. Go Clockwise till it stops then go CCW till it stops. Do this a few times.

Now remove your transmission & bell-housing.

You should see where the paint was rubbed indicating where to trim with a grinder to let the flywheel clear

DV BH Paint scratch TDI flywheel.jpg

Trim and remount and make sure it rotates cleanly.

Then remove the transmission and the DMF clutch/flywheel and put the DV flywheel/PP back on the engine.

Now mate up the transmission again so you have the BH mark for the Flywheel/PP. Turn the crank till you have TDC of the flywheel, then install your crank-lock tool from MetalNerd.

At this point TDC the IP and CamShaft as indicated above.

Once, everything is at TDC; crank, camshaft, and IP

You can now remove the DV flywheel/pressure plate

At this point you should install the pilot bearing lightly greased tapped into the spot on the engine

Install orientation

DV pilot bearing.jpg


DV pilot bearing-installed.jpg

Install the TDI DMF Clutch/Flywheel.


Reinstall the transmission with the bell-housing.

Now, the BH will give a TDC mark of where the DV was that you now mark on your TDI DMF Flywheel/PP as indicated below;


Marking TDC On the DMF (shortcut)

To save some time with the above here is a shortcut.

Having your Luke DMF infront of you flywheel facing away from you. Pressure plate facing towards you. The "0" facing towards the top like the image below


A closer look of the LUK DMF with the "0" TDC mark. The arrow points to the 1st tooth that you count 37 teeth going CCW for the new DV TDC mark.

TDI DMF TDC closer.jpg

When you count 37 teeth CCW (Counter ClockWise) you'll be ready to make a new mark. I did mine slightly before the 37th tooth towards the valley. It's worked fine for me!

DV TDI DMF TDC mark 37.jpg

For the Diesel Bellhousing trim here is a better photo. It really just needs a nick off that high point.

DV TDI DMF BH Trim.jpg

Now once it is together and everything TDC, turn it manually a few rotations to make sure your clearance is good!



Please reference the wiki page: Cooling System

Donaldson variants

The reason for the starter battery relocation was for the Donaldson G065433 air-box with the bracket p/n H0084412 or H008444

I wanted to get the intake routing as direct as possible with my setup.

Using a passenger fabbed snorkel coming into thje passenger side, putting the Donaldson as shown below, makes it way easier and direct for the hoses.

NOTE: I had to remove the tabs off the old DV snorkel and those foam bits. It was then able to fit into the passenger side with some wiggling effort with the 3" hose. It WILL go, but be patient and take your time. For securing the hose to the snorkel use Rescue Tape!


Installed view without hoses, yes the clips are functional! The lower is a little bit tight, but it works!

Betsy Intake Box-a.jpg

Betsy Intake Box-d.jpg

This gives some idea of how much hose clearance I'll have. The taillight is installed in the last photo to get a reference:

Betsy Intake Box-b.jpg

Betsy Intake Box-c.jpg

This is the snorkel and 3" hose attached. It was a bit to work the 3" around the snorkel, but it WAS possible!

DV snorkel 3inch tubing.jpg

This is the snorkel wrapped with Rescue Tape to attach the hose. This is the BEST tape to use compared to "duct-tape". No substitution for this project!

DV snorkel rescued.jpg

This is how the snorkel will look when test-fitting. You'll need to remove the tabs/foam for it to fit

DV snorkel moved ps.jpg

Snorkel hose is now attached to the Donaldson as shown in this photo looking in from the rear light

Betsy Intake Snorkel Hose Routed.jpg

The red one is going to the turbo. It's a tight fit! But it's doable! It's 2.5" on the Donaldson side to 2.25" on the metal pipe

Betsy Intake Snorkel Hose Routed-red.jpg


The Renault 5 GT A2A IC is a good fitting IC for the Vanagon! It's roughly the same size as the SAAB C900, but a tad larger and a thicker core.

You DO have to modify the van a tad for fitment, but it's a small not noticiable change.

Modifying the van

Here is the lip that needs to be folded flat for the IC to fit


I marked where to tin-snip with a sharpie. I moved my line further so the two outer lines is where I snipped.

IC-test-fit-lines to benb.jpg

Here's the IC test fitted with the lip cut and bent outward; later you'll bend it back inward to hold the IC more to the other side of the wall.

IC Lip bentout.jpg

Another view of the lip

IC Lip bentout-b.jpg

Final Test Fit

Here is a sample fitment. You can go further back than the SAAB thus allowing more of the downward flow into the IC directly. There's still a 45degree roughly out the other side of the IC into the engine bay. Keeping the upper and lower pressure zones fluid.

Renault 5GT IC DV Placement.jpg

Here's one from the side

IC side fit-b.jpg

Mount & Shroud

Bent a chunk of steel and made a bolt hole. In the body of the van I made a 8mm X 1.25mm bolt tap.

Update: I tapped a second bolt hole verticle to stabilize the bracket

Renault5GT mounted in DV.jpg

There's not much a shroud required! You can put some weather stripping at the top of the area whre the IC mounts, that'll flush the upper area. Near the tail-light entrance, there was a small patch whre upper air could get to the lower area. I used alumnum reflective tape to cover that hole/patch. Very minimal needed for the shroud. The IC fits perfectly there!

Intake & IC Routing


After driving and revising ignore the sizes in photos and do this for hose sizes;

Airbox to turbo is 2.25” or 57mm that includes the 2.25”x1”x2.25” tee or better termed “57mm BOV” in ebay.

Turbo to IC is 2.25” or 57mm and IC to Intake manifold is 2.25” or 57mm

Here are some photos of how I routed the Intake to the Intercooler

IC Intake Routing.jpg

Better view of Intercooler

IC Intake Routing 2.jpg

Here are some better detailed photos

IC Routing.jpg

NOTE: Get the 57mm (2.25") from the IC to the intake. The turbo inlet is 2.25”, so 2”-2.25” from Donaldson is fine

And closer to the tee off the turbo

Tee obtained here

IC Routing2.jpg


I kept getting popped hoses off the IC and the joins. I eventually settled on this setup which seems to be a LOT more solid.

Get two HPS HTSER90-200-225-BLUE and trim them down to fit as shown.


Final result

Revised IC Routing.jpg


1.9td - 1.9tdi


If using an AAZ exhaust manifold which points the turbo up higher; for better drainage to the block--if you drain to the block.

Get a PD130, NOT a PD150. The PD150 points towards the rear of the van. This "makes" sense till you realize it interfers with the turbo using the AAZ exhaust manifold that moves it up higher. The PD130 that points towards the front of the van is more ideal with the AAZ exhaust manifold.

If you use the AHU exhaust manifold and drain into the oil sump NOT the block, then you'll likely have clearance room to use the PD150.


  • VW; W42-011-294-103B 21-6
  • Use high-temp (2000 F) anti-seize on bolts; blue
  • Bolt hardware installed at 25Nm (18ft lb) or close to that with a torque wrench


PD130/PD150 intake TheSamba article

The single large 3 bolt intake on the PD Intake Manifold that connect to your IC piping faces FRONT of the van typical on AHU install

These terms are used to describe the same thing

Driver side exit, right side , euro passat, longitudinal and is one of these part#


The two above intakes would require an EGR delete down-pipe

However, if you have an intake with the p/n 028129713N which is from a Golf 1z setup would also work a-bit more restrictive with the air.

PD130 Install Notes

Intake PD130 038129713AJ



I wanted to replace the gasket and all mounting bolts

ID Parts Intake Manifold Cleaning Kit (AHU/1Z)

Which includes the parts laid out in:

ETKA 1997 Passat Diesel Intake Manifold

The kit itself includes what I need: gasket & mounting bolts

If obtaining a used intake (which is MOST likely the case there's various methods of cleaning it out.

In my case, I used multiple (two-three days twice a day)power-washings after they sat with oven-cleaner sprayed on their intake ports.

It should look like this before putting it on the long-block


PD130 hack off bosses

The turbo isn't clearing the PD130 bosses and mating cleanly.

Here is a youtube and photo of what I'm talking about:

Youtube Video

Arrows pointing where it is not clearing

K14turbo issue.jpg

Hack off the bosses!


  • Torque Wrench
  • H6


1 x 038129713AJ OR 038129713AG


AHU PD130 install.jpg

Gasket Install

The raised side goes towards the intake manifold with the indented side going towards the head

After Market Options

Darkside Developments

This is what I ended up with eventually (cam facing) and ended up modifying the inlet to be a 90 into the I/C.

DarksideDevelopment 1.9 TDI Custom Aluminum Intake Manifold

Photo of modded


Exhaust Manifold

1.6na - 1.9tdi capable

NOTE: Before you start see the EGT Probe section below

I couldn't find the newer style as readily as the older style. I got a newer one for if I had to switch to it down the road.


  • VW; W42-011-294-103B 21-2
  • Use high-temp (2000 F) anti-seize on bolts to hold the copper exhaust nuts which are to be torqued @ 25nm (18ft lb)


If using the AAZ exhaust manifold you position the turbo higher; thus, allowing to drain to the block instead of the oil pan.

There are TWO types of AAZ exhaust manifolds that work for this.

The older trapezoid and the newer triangle, both will work; however, some notes regarding the two.

OLDER - Trapezoid - Four Hole Unit - This will mount a K14 turbo stock without modification P/N 068-129-591G

NEWER - Triangle - Three Hole Unit - This will mount a K03 or K03 hybrid stock turbo without modification. P/N 028-253-033R

AAZ Exhaust Comparison

AAZ Exhaust Manifold Comparison.jpg

EGT Probe

Aircraft Spruce - 1/8 NTP


1 x 068-129-591G - MK1 exhaust manifold trapezoid flange
8 x N90085001- Copper plated exhaust manifold nut (8 per manifold) @ 25nm (18ft lb)
8 x N90095501 - Exhaust manifold OE washer
4 x 028-129-589B Exhaust Manifold Gasket.


  • 12mm socket
  • Torque wrench
  • Permatex Ultra Copper
  • Blue LocTite

Gasket Install

Per Libby: "The metal ring on the exhaust manifold gaskets can face either the head or the manifold and in fact, two *should* face the head and two should face the manifold. There is a horizontal line of symmetry through the exhaust manifold, but if you place a vertical line through the fastener holes, the ports are offset 4-5mm toward the center of the engine. In other words, the two ports on the pulley end of the head are offset toward the flywheel and the two at the flywheel end of the head are offset toward the pulleys. The exhaust gaskets need to be oriented so that the offset is the correct direction. Furthermore, if you look where the gasket surrounds the stud, there is a skinny side and there is a side that has more material. The skinny side should be oriented closer to the intake manifold."

Then a light smear of permatex copper on both sides of the exhaust manifold gaskets

Here is how the gaskets should look orientated before the permatex sealer

AHU exhaust gasket orientation.jpg


Exhaust Manifold Installation Video


AHU exhaust manifold.jpg

EGT Probe Install



IPDATE; The below tap location works, but so does tapping the above stud when imused on an AHU. I wasn't aware then. Verified by Karl M.

AAZ exhaust-EGT-a.jpg

AAZ exhaust-EGT-b.jpg

AAZ exhaust-EGT-c.jpg

ABF Serpentine Setup

This bracket and setup, WILL keep your alternator lower than the deck-lid; thus, the arm on the IP being the only possible interference. That interference though is negligent, as you just trim the foam for clearance of the throttle arm. However, if you need to cut-out the deckled here's a File:Andrew Libby Engine Lid Template.pdf template for you.

Since I don't have power-steering nor do I have air-conditioning, I can simplify my setup and make it more reliable with a serpentine setup rather than a v-belt system.

This can be accomplished via various methods as mentioned below. I went the ABF way


I ended up using a system from iABED Industries found on the VWVortex

He makes a custom bracket, that's really beautiful, but if you want to source / find your own VW specific parts (p/n 028903143AD) read these threads:

The Alternator I ended up using was an ABF Bosch reman 90a - AL0187X (VW # 028 903 025 P)


iABED Industries ABF Bracket


Alternator installed with the bracket and pulley's installed.




Turbo & Boost Controller

This covers mostly wastegate turbos, for VNT based solutions, see the Performance Parts page.

Read this on how to hookup

This is one of the "variables" that varies for what you want. The most common turbos tend to be:

  • K14 ; fits trapezoid AAZ exhaust manifold - about 10psi without a boost controller . Max 18-20psi with a boost controller - This was my initial choice and turbo used for Betsy's initial conversion. I later went GT2052, as I put larger DLC764 nozzels on.
  • K03 & K03 Hybrid ; fit triangle AAZ exhaust manifold
  • GT2052; requires slight mod for the AAZ 3hole manifold or an adaptor plate for the trapezoid 4 hole AAZ exhaust manifold
  • Holset HE 200; requires adaption