This page will relate to information specific to fitting a VW Diesel TDI Engine into a vanagon. If applicable to an AAZ that's mentioned too.
- 1 Reference Material
- 2 Diesel Vanagon/T3/T25 Donor List
- 3 Performance Parts
- 4 50deg layout Specifics
- 5 Cooling System
- 6 Engine Electrical
- 7 Engine Mechanical
- 8 Engine Carrier Bars & Brackets
- 9 Engine Mounts
- 10 Transmission
- 10.1 Options
- 10.2 Tranny Upgrade Notes
- 10.3 Transmission Gear Calculator / Ratios
- 10.4 091 Transaxle to Engine Mounting
- 11 TDI Clutch Upgrade
- 12 Airbox
- 13 Intercooler
- 14 Intake
- 15 Exhaust Manifold
- 16 ABF Serpentine Setup
- 17 Turbos
- Here is my YouTube playlist of videos to this page. There's not as many videos as I initially thought. I think videos can move a bit quick and allow a miss of detail. That and uploading a large video over mifi is a challenge ;)
TDI Conversion Kits
Conversion Part Vendors
- Bentley; ISBN 10: 0837603668
Social Media & Forums
FaceBook has most of those groups
- Vanagon Owners Group - Overly moderated and free speech/thought is NOT encouraged.
Diesel Vanagon/T3/T25 Donor List
Most of this is covered in detail further down the page
This is a list of items that you will need to source from an 82' or 83' USA diesel Vanagon or look over the pond at T3s to fit a 1z/AHU engine
- Diesel Vanagon oil-pan & oil filler tube as also oil-pump
- Diesel Vanagon Transmission Bell Housing to allow 50 degree mounting
- Diesel Vanagon Transmission Flywheel & Clutch (to later identify the TDI TDC mark)
- Diesel Vanagon engine mount brackets; mostly the passenger side mount bracket. You may decide to change the driver side mount for clearing a larger turbo than a K03 or K03 hybrid.
- Diesel Vanagon engine carrier bars, unless you decide to use the FAS Carrier Setup
50deg layout Specifics
The real magic here is in the 82' diesel vanagon oil-pan as the oil-pump used in the 82' 1.6na diesel vanagon.
This section will include details on swapping the 1.6na DV oil-pan for a 50 degree install, as also the 4cyl windage tray for it. At the same time we'll be swapping in an 82' diesel oil-pump to get the desired plunge shaft length. It is recommended getting a new oil-pump to make sure no premature failures, as newer DV pumps (BP code) have the necessary TDI plunge diameter.
NOTE: You must leave the oil-pan loose and mate to the transmission first THEN once the transmission is mounted tighten up the oil-pan along the edge level to the block. In addition, there are TWO bolts near the flywheel that are hard to reach. You'll need to rotate the flywheel and use the elongated space to tighten those two bolts. Make sure to dab a little bit of loctite on those two bolts. You do NOT want them coming loose by accident.
- VW; W42-011-294-103B 13-12
- 13mm socket 6point
DV Pan swap to AHU
Its as recommended to get longer oil-pan screws for the windage tray, but the stock 1.6na CS engine DV pan comes with the following 20 bolt size M6x22
Get M6X25 for clearing the windage tray @ 10Nm or 7ft/lbs. VW specs a good bolt for this p/n N10302402
These should be tightened to 7ft/lbs
Now for the actual windage tray itself. It was included with the AAZ and sometimes with the 1Z and AHU engines, but was more common in the gasser inline 4's. It was NOT part of the 1.6na engine.
That said, my 1Z came with a windage tray, but sometimes the sealant is so bad it fucks the seal up and you'll need to get a new one.
The Windage Tray P/N is: 037115220B
DV Oil Pump Swap
You need to use the DV oil-pump NOT the AHU oil-pump; unless you modify it by moving the DV pickup to the AHU oil pump.
- Bentley 17-1 - 1Z / AHU specific
- VW W42-011-294-103B p17-6
Once you have the oil-pan off the AHU you'll see the oil-pump. However, if you're long-block is like mine it may have a windage tray installed.
AHU Windage Tray Installed
Now you'll see the oil-pump as the silver device with the black tray delay off to the left. This is the oil pump you need to swap.
Here is the AHU (black pickup) oil-pump vs a new DV oil-pump (all metal)
You'll see two bolts (black heads for me) where my fingers point. These will remove the oil-pump (13mm)
When installing the DV oil-pump the two pump bolts get torqued at 20Nm
NOTE: The AHU oil-pump bolts are LONGER than the DV oil-pump bolts. If you do not have the original DV Oil Pump bolts you need to get two of either of the following P/Ns: N01037510 or N0103753 with the spring-washers N0122265
Installing Oil Pump & Windage Tray
See the note above about final tightening that happens AFTER the transmission has been mated to the engine! When ready to tighten, use blue thread locker for the bolts. It helps keep everything snug.
I've seen two types of AHU windage trays. OEM and from Victor Reinz. The VR ones are slightly larger where they can with caution and care fit over the DV oil-pump. The OE ones do not.
I just suggest installing the pump first (the bolts will be 13mm tigten to 20Nm) and with blue thread tocker. At that point you can let the windage tray hold on the pump like this
Then put on the oil-pan with the bolts hand-tighten / semi loose, as to protect the pump. You should have something like this
NOTE: The down-pipe isn't in the proper orientation. I didn't know better at the time of this photo. It's an unessary detail unless it caught your eye to; wtf?
Coolant System - THIS allows the heart to beat and not overheat and die. It's ESSENTIAL to be in tip-top condition! Your diesel Vanagon's coolant system is HOW old? And you want to do WHAT type of conversion? Do this first if you haven't already!
If replacing the headgasket it is recommended to update your headbolts to ARP studs. I mean you're already there!
028-103-383BB - 1.53mm
028-103-383BC - 1.57mm
028-103-383BD - 1.61mm
028-103-383BP - 1.53mm
028-10-3383BQ - 1.57mm
028-103-383BR - 1.61mm Victor Renz in Germany. Victor Reinz Part Number: 54435, 61-33120-50.
Aux Oil Cooler
1.6na - 1.9tdi capable
Choose an Oil Cooler:
- 1x 028117021E - oil cooler V6 4Motion Cooler - Good for Stock AHU engines
- 1x 028117070B - oem cooler seal. The febi one sucked
- 1x 038117021B - oil cooler for a 2.0 TDI engine - Good for Enhanced AHU Engines
- 1x 038117070B - oem cooler seal.
Get the tube & nut; same for both O/Cs
- 1x 028115721B - union tube
- 1x 068115723 - hexagon nut; ADC,AAZ,ABA,; AHU,1Z
This is pretty simple just slide it over the (028115721B - union tube) into the oil-filter assembly. The ports will face left of the engine indicated in the photo below. If you look at the top of the cooler and inside the flange you'll see the 'oil' feed line hole. Those basically need to match up.
Then place the oil-cooler over it and attach with the (068115723 - hexagon nut)
This is what a 2.0 TDI O/C with Karl's moddification done installed looks like:
Aux Oil-Cooler Modification
The default DV aux oil-cooler doesn't allow for constant flow of coolant. Only when the thermostat opens.
This is kinda silly since all the newer diesels implemented a better setup.
Therefore, this SHOULD be REQUIRED for all DV owners.
Seeing is believing like they say. It also helps visualize what has to happen. This was indeed the case with me!
Karl M. @ Westy Ventures drew this up to explain what's required for the modification that he explains in TheSamba post.
For the Tee you can search ebay for sometrhing along: Coolant Hose T Fitting Radiator Hose T Fitting Hose Splice 1" X 1" X 5/8" VW has one under p/n N90693001
Which should look like this:
If you prefer a Y based solution, go to Heater Craft
For attaching the hoses make sure to use rolled-edge SS clamps, as they don't cut into the hose as traditional hose-clamps do.
Fot the 1/4” restrictor you can use a fender washer with a 1/4" hole and a 1.25" OD
Because this is a lot of media I will break this into sub pages
Good information for an AHU setup
Came in two variations :
- 10mm head - manual transmission
- 11mm head - automatic transmission
There's a few builders, I suggest finding one that you feel comfortable with who you get warm fuzzies from.
Also posting on their FaceBook Group
Injection Pump Builders
Giles Also has a great reputiation
Dieselmeken AB Also has a great reputiation
WestyVentures - Karl M. has a reputation of building mTDI pumps based off a 4BT Cummins VE Injection Pump
Many hobbyists also use a Land Rover 300TDI Injection Pump modded setup. William Roberts on the TDI FB groups is popular person to obtain a LR300TDI
Possible 4bt pumps that would need modding; 0460424049, 0460424078
The pump I obtained was from Westy Ventures.
AVOID: HANs aka Prothe which has had more junk than any VW vendor
Injection Pump DYI
A mTDI injection pump is really simple to tune!
You just need:
These two for IP fuel screw & nut
- 13mm wrench
- 6mm wrench fuel screw adj (CW = more fuel)
These for idle nut
- 10mm deep socket
- 1/4" rachet
- 1/4" rachet extension
- 1/4" rachet swivel head
This for idle screw adj (CW = more idle)
- Long Flat Head Screw Driver
This is for boost controller (MBC)
- Allen key for your Master Boost Controller (MBC)
Engine Carrier Bars & Brackets
1.6na - 1.9tdi capable
Ah carrier bars. So, there's the 82' style which was an one-off in the USA and then 83+ which was when the engine got pushed back roughly 2" towards the rear to accomodate for a longer WBX transmission.
When you have an 82' diesel, it make sense to keep that arrangement. It's also been argued by some the 82' style allows easier access for working on the engine, as it's not 2" closer to the rear.
Upgraded 82' Bars
It's known that the 82' bars provide more vibration which some will argue. Myself when I researched the interwebz the general consensus was that they are not as good with vibrations compared to the newer 83' style carriers. Most people don't even notice a real difference. However, with my physical health, I will do whatever I can to make it more comfy.
Also, the cross-member that connects the two carriers that goes over the oil-pan is a very weak link. I have read where others have used a stonger tube bar to help it from twisting over. Because the 83' carriers don't have the rubber bushings on the ends there's no requirement for the cross member bar.
That said, I went with 83' style bars, but just not ANY 83' bars though, Tony @ TSI-Engeering found on TheSamba makes. He also makes a 50' degree DS mount to clear the turbo. I didn't realize that when I bought my DS mount.
I got a set of his 83' 2WD Carrier bars and then moved the motor brackets (had him lightly mark them where he installs) and then moved it towards the front of the van 2". It mounted perfectly!
I then installed his Isolator Mounts which use VW P/N 357199402BMY (Meyle has a better fitment with the isolator bracket I've read).
This allows for a more modern and easily found engine mount; searches will present it as a motor/transmission mount. It appears it was more widely used as a transmission mount.
- Tony @ TSI Engineering 2WD Carrier Bar Reference Document
TSI Carrier Install
Front Carrier Mount (no rubber!)
Driver Side Mount
This has a little more 'wiggle' room with part variations
There's essentially two washers and one bolt per mounting point (4 mounting points).
- 4x N01024222 (M8X25) or N0102478 (M8X35) based on fitment
- 4 x N01224111 - spring washer
- 4 x N01152520 - washer
- 1 x N10155207 - M10 nut
- 3 x N0102584 - bolt
- 3 x N0122422 - washer
- 3 x N01152711 - spring washer
- 1 x N10155207- M10 nut
Driver Side Bracket
If you use a larger turbo you'll need to fabricate a bracket that'll fit it.
There are options though:
- EPYTEC 1z conversion mount - This is what I ended up with.
- Tony @ TSI Engineering - I would have went this route if I knew he made those along with the carrier bars!
Driver Side Stock 82' Diesel Vanagon engine bracket
Passenger Side Stock 82' Diesel Vanagon engine bracket
1.6na - 1.9tdi capable
Generally speaking, if you plan to have a larger turbo than a K03 or K03/04 hybrid such as a GT2052 or VNT20 turbo, you'll need to modify the driver side motor mount.
One can be custom made if fabrication skills exist. Or one can buy something already available and modify it to suit your needs. When I started my project, I didn't have fabrication skills as I later developed.
Driver Side Engine Mount Options
- EPYTEC 1z conversion mount - This is what I ended up with.
- Tony @ TSI Engineering - I would have went this route if I knew he made those along with the carrier bars!
I ended up purchasing the Epytec motor mount which is stout and works out of the box for a K03 / VNT15 turbo.
However, it has it's flaws which are easily corrected if done right.
The two issues with this motor mount are
1.) They bent and shaped the mount properly, but failed to fill the bend/divets with weld filler to prevent cracks.
The photos below help show what I'm talking about.
Hack off the hump!
Now put something thick in it's place that's not as high up! This is raw to give an idea of what to do. After you weld something clean it up and repaint!
The change I did gave me a 0.25" of space between the wastegate and the mount. Perfect!
Engine Isolator Mounts
One method I was looking at was using SAAB Hydraulic mounts as seen here
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=403215&highlight=ahu - rsxr - Saab engine mounts
I then discovered Tony Sanchez (TSI Engineering) who makes Syncro and 2wd 83+ carrier bars.
Now, this got me thinking about what the differences between 82' and 83' style carrier bars.
The newer 83+ bars move the motor brackets that are welded on the carrier bars back towards the rear of the van. This was done to allow for longer transmissions in the later years.
However, no one makes 82' style new carrier bars. To me the newer style is ideal for the following reasons:
- They are solid mounted at the end of the carriers and not rubber NLA (yet supposedly accesible) bushings
- There is no need for a cross member across the oil-pan to help 'stablize' it.
- Supposedly the newer bars help reduce vibration which for a diesel is high on my list.
I have a set of TSI Engineering bars, which I plan to remove the motor bracket mounts and move them in position as where they would be on the 82'
1.9td - 1.9tdi capable
One thine to note about transmissions.
- 1980 - 1982 - Vanagons placed the engine roughly 1.75" forward in earlier vans
- 1983 - 1991 - Vanagons placed the engine roughly 1.75" further rear compared to earlier vans.
This is primarly due to the transmission nose cones being different as such using different transmission mounts. And well different transmissions ;) 091 vs 094
If starting with an 82' diesel origionally, you should upgrade the 3rib transmission or expect to blow shit up early on.
The easiest upgrade path for an 82' diesel vanagon is getting a DK transmission and putting the diesel vanagon bell housing on it.
DK 091 (80-82 air-cooled Vanagon transmission).
If you have a later year (1983) Vanagon or newer it makes sense to stick to the 094 WBX transmission, as they are more stout than a 091 DK transmission.
You also won't need to adapt the transmission mount and linkage to fit the earlier setup.
However, due to the engine placement, which is based off the carrier bars. You have a few options here:
- Get 1983 DV Carrier bars from Tony at TSI
- Modify 1982 DV Carrier bars
- FAS Carrier Bar setup
- Go Custom!
Flipped Audi 5spd
This still kinda new, but to give some reading.
Tranny Upgrade Notes
The TDI will not have any difficulty cruising at 3500rpms or even a bit higher. The only downsides are noise and a bit of a drop in fuel economy. If your preference is to cruise at 65, then gear 3,000 @ 65MPH. With that gearing you will be able to cruise at 70-75MPH if need be and will still be high enough in the rpms @ 65 to develop enough HP for cruising with a 'cushion'.
"Max torque on a stock TDI is around 2200 RPM. Max hp is around 3800 RPM. The TDI seems happiest in a Vanagon between 2600 and 2800 RPM. You are above the max torque, but well below the max hp. Your gearing and tires will dictate what speed that is." - Mark Ward - The Samba.
In this ratio, I would think a Westy would be more the range of 2700-2900rpm to account for the extra weight; ~700lbs last I heard!
Till a better place linkage differences here
Transmission Gear Calculator / Ratios
Here are some good calculators:
091 Transaxle to Engine Mounting
So, there's a ton of slang in this portion of the engine. Why? I don't know, people must be fucking bored.
- Service Manual | Slang | Abbv.
- Clutch Release Bearing | Throw Out Bearing | TOB
- Needle Bearing | Pilot Bearing | NB / PB
These should ideally be replaced if going through the trouble of redoing a transmission:
- 056105313C = needle bearing
- 091141165D = clutch release bearing or a more modern p/n 113141165B
- 016141181 = clutch release bearing guide tube, if needed
If you're transfering your DV components for the conversion, KEEP your diesel bell housing bolts that go into the engine.
If you're in Europe you can get the bolts from BrickWerks
If you're like myself in the USA, and starting with no previous DV parts to work with finding those bolts can be a real PITA. Fortunately, I got an awesome reply from syncroserge with the following information:
All bolts, no studs. ETKA is both inaccurate and incomplete on this. The starter bolts are in: Electrical Systems, Starter and Single Parts, diesel eng.
- 2x M12 x 1,75 x 122mm, N 040 350 1
The one on the clutch slave has no washer.
On the other side of starter washer is:
- A13 x 24 x2,5 , N 011 531 7
For the rest of the block. in Engine, Clutch, look under cylinder block with pistons, oil sump
Then next 2 are:
- M12 x 1,75 x 80mm, N 010 464 4, both with same washer as above.
At bottom of block,
- M12 x 1,75 x 100mm, N 010 458 2, washer same as above, nut:
- M12 x 1,75, N 011 030 4
Two bolts from bellhousing to oil pan (never found those in ETKA):
- M10 x 1,5 x 65mm, N 010 465 9, both with washers:
- A10,5 x 21 x 2, N 011 527 11
Clutch Cross Shaft Installation
The transmission didn't have a Cross Shaft when sent to AA, so we need to install one.
There are two available Cross Shafts that you can get from Weddle:
I went with the HD after reading about a Subaru H3 using it and others saying it's beefier than the OE from their visual inspection.
You'll also want parts
- 1x 113-141-165BS - Throw Out Bearing (TOB)
- 1x 113141707C - HEAVY DUTY 20MM BRONZE CLUTCH CROSS SHAFT BUSHING (OIL IMPREGNATED)
- 1x 113-141-711A - THIN BUSHING FOR 20MM CLUTCH CROSS SHAFT, GENUINE VW
- 1x 113-141-717A - 20MM WASHER FOR LATE CLUTCH CROSS SHAFT, NEW
- 1x 113-311-141A - LOCATING BOLT, 14MM LONG, NEW
- 2x N-012-420-1 - CIRCLIP FOR VW CLUTCH CROSS SHAFT, LATE (20MM)
Lightly grease the bushing and teeth of the shaft when installed without the TOB it'll look like:
Now, we're ready to install the TOB. Use a light coast of grease inside the TOB where it slips over the shaft. Make sure to slide it over in this orientation and then use a flat head screw-driver to pry the springs around the hooks:
This is the best time to install a T3 Transmission Mount (74mm)
There is NO easy way to remove the old bushing. I drilled holes, sawed, cut, etc. I eventually got the damn thing out. You'll want the end result like this:
Inner ring removed
Clutch Slave Cylinder
I replaced my Clutch Slave Cylinder while I was swapping the tranny out. I figured it was a smart move. It's P/N 251.721.263 and available at Van-Cafe
Removing the old slave-cylinder can be a real PITA. Removing the line from the cylinder even more so! Use a torch on the flar nut, let it cool spray penetrating oil, and repeat a few times tapping the flare-nut with a hammer. Eventually it'll come off OR do the flare-nut on the other end of the line.
TDI Clutch Upgrade
1.9td - 1.9tdi capable
TDI Input Shaft
USA best to get it through Chris @ T3Technique
TDI Flywheel Cover Plate
Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit - slightly more torque
LUK DMF (17-050)
LUK 17-050 - less vibration
This can be done on an AAZ or TDI (1Z, AHU, ALH) engines in a 50deg setup with a diesel vanagon bellhousing.
Marking TDC On the DMF
There's going to be two hurdles:
- Making clearance for the DMF flywheel with the diesel bell-housing
- Getting the proper TDC mark on the TDI Flywheel.
Get a modified TDI input shaft from Chris @ T3 Technique (ask him) or buy from Brickwerks here (input-shaft-t3-tdi) installed onto your transmission.
TDC The Engine before proceeding
First cover the input shaft and Clutch Cross Shaft with masking tape. Then do a light spray of white spray paint inside the bell-housing. A very light spray. Then let that dry.
The Diesel Vangon Flywheel & Pressure plate have what you need to do this. The Pressure Plate will have a V indicating where TDC should be set
Now, I installed the DV pressure plate & flywheel to the AHU engine. Here's a photo of the flywheel installed (forgot to do one with the PP on it). Remember the PP showen above has the V which is what we want to get TDC of the Crank Shaft
You'll at this point when the crank turns freely you'll want to mount up the DMF flywheel to the engine. Then mount up the tranny with the Bell Housing to the engine.
Once that's mated, try turning the crank. You "should" have interference. Go Clockwise till it stops then go CCW till it stops. Do this a few times.
Now remove your transmission & bell-housing.
You should see where the paint was rubbed indicating where to trim with a grinder to let the flywheel clear
Trim and remount and make sure it rotates cleanly.
Then remove the transmission and the DMF clutch/flywheel and put the DV flywheel/PP back on the engine.
Now mate up the transmission again so you have the BH mark for the Flywheel/PP. Turn the crank till you have TDC of the flywheel, then install your crank-lock tool from MetalNerd.
At this point TDC the IP and CamShaft as indicated above.
Once, everything is at TDC; crank, camshaft, and IP
You can now remove the DV flywheel/pressure plate
At this point you should install the pilot bearing lightly greased tapped into the spot on the engine
Install the TDI DMF Clutch/Flywheel.
Reinstall the transmission with the bell-housing.
Now, the BH will give a TDC mark of where the DV was that you now mark on your TDI DMF Flywheel/PP as indicated below;
Marking TDC On the DMF (shortcut)
To save some time with the above here is a shortcut.
Having your Luke DMF infront of you flywheel facing away from you. Pressure plate facing towards you. The "0" facing towards the top like the image below
A closer look of the LUK DMF with the "0" TDC mark. The arrow points to the 1st tooth that you count 37 teeth going CCW for the new DV TDC mark.
When you count 37 teeth CCW (Counter ClockWise) you'll be ready to make a new mark. I did mine slightly before the 37th tooth towards the valley. It's worked fine for me!
For the Diesel Bellhousing trim here is a better photo. It really just needs a nick off that high point.
Now once it is together and everything TDC, turn it manually a few rotations to make sure your clearance is good!
Please reference the wiki page: Cooling System
The reason for the starter battery relocation was for the Donaldson G065433 air-box with the bracket p/n H0084412 or H008444
I wanted to get the intake routing as direct as possible with my setup.
Using a passenger fabbed snorkel coming into thje passenger side, putting the Donaldson as shown below, makes it way easier and direct for the hoses.
NOTE: I had to remove the tabs off the old DV snorkel and those foam bits. It was then able to fit into the passenger side with some wiggling effort with the 3" hose. It WILL go, but be patient and take your time. For securing the hose to the snorkel use Rescue Tape!
Installed view without hoses, yes the clips are functional! The lower is a little bit tight, but it works!
This gives some idea of how much hose clearance I'll have. The taillight is installed in the last photo to get a reference:
This is the snorkel and 3" hose attached. It was a bit to work the 3" around the snorkel, but it WAS possible!
This is the snorkel wrapped with Rescue Tape to attach the hose. This is the BEST tape to use compared to "duct-tape". No substitution for this project!
This is how the snorkel will look when test-fitting. You'll need to remove the tabs/foam for it to fit
Snorkel hose is now attached to the Donaldson as shown in this photo looking in from the rear light
The red one is going to the turbo. It's a tight fit! But it's doable! It's 2.5" on the Donaldson side to 2.25" on the metal pipe
The Renault 5 GT A2A IC is a good fitting IC for the Vanagon! It's roughly the same size as the SAAB C900, but a tad larger and a thicker core.
You DO have to modify the van a tad for fitment, but it's a small not noticiable change.
Modifying the van
Here is the lip that needs to be folded flat for the IC to fit
I marked where to tin-snip with a sharpie. I moved my line further so the two outer lines is where I snipped.
Here's the IC test fitted with the lip cut and bent outward; later you'll bend it back inward to hold the IC more to the other side of the wall.
Another view of the lip
Final Test Fit
Here is a sample fitment. You can go further back than the SAAB thus allowing more of the downward flow into the IC directly. There's still a 45degree roughly out the other side of the IC into the engine bay. Keeping the upper and lower pressure zones fluid.
Here's one from the side
Mount & Shroud
Bent a chunk of steel and made a bolt hole. In the body of the van I made a 8mm X 1.25mm bolt tap.
Update: I tapped a second bolt hole verticle to stabilize the bracket
There's not much a shroud required! You can put some weather stripping at the top of the area whre the IC mounts, that'll flush the upper area. Near the tail-light entrance, there was a small patch whre upper air could get to the lower area. I used alumnum reflective tape to cover that hole/patch. Very minimal needed for the shroud. The IC fits perfectly there!
Intake & IC Routing
After driving and revising ignore the sizes in photos and do this for hose sizes;
Airbox to turbo is 2.25” or 57mm that includes the 2.25”x1”x2.25” tee or better termed “57mm BOV” in ebay.
Turbo to IC is 2.25” or 57mm and IC to Intake manifold is 2.25” or 57mm
Here are some photos of how I routed the Intake to the Intercooler
Better view of Intercooler
Here are some better detailed photos
NOTE: Get the 57mm (2.25") from the IC to the intake. The turbo inlet is 2.25”, so 2”-2.25” from Donaldson is fine
And closer to the tee off the turbo
Tee obtained here
I kept getting popped hoses off the IC and the joins. I eventually settled on this setup which seems to be a LOT more solid.
Get two HPS HTSER90-200-225-BLUE and trim them down to fit as shown.
1.9td - 1.9tdi
If using an AAZ exhaust manifold which points the turbo up higher; for better drainage to the block--if you drain to the block.
Get a PD130, NOT a PD150. The PD150 points towards the rear of the van. This "makes" sense till you realize it interfers with the turbo using the AAZ exhaust manifold that moves it up higher. The PD130 that points towards the front of the van is more ideal with the AAZ exhaust manifold.
If you use the AHU exhaust manifold and drain into the oil sump NOT the block, then you'll likely have clearance room to use the PD150.
- VW; W42-011-294-103B 21-6
- Use high-temp (2000 F) anti-seize on bolts; blue
- Bolt hardware installed at 25Nm (18ft lb) or close to that with a torque wrench
The single large 3 bolt intake on the PD Intake Manifold that connect to your IC piping faces FRONT of the van typical on AHU install
These terms are used to describe the same thing
Driver side exit, right side , euro passat, longitudinal and is one of these part#
The two above intakes would require an EGR delete down-pipe
However, if you have an intake with the p/n 028129713N which is from a Golf 1z setup would also work a-bit more restrictive with the air.
PD130 Install Notes
Intake PD130 038129713AJ
I wanted to replace the gasket and all mounting bolts
Which includes the parts laid out in:
The kit itself includes what I need: gasket & mounting bolts
If obtaining a used intake (which is MOST likely the case there's various methods of cleaning it out.
In my case, I used multiple (two-three days twice a day)power-washings after they sat with oven-cleaner sprayed on their intake ports.
It should look like this before putting it on the long-block
PD130 hack off bosses
The turbo isn't clearing the PD130 bosses and mating cleanly.
Here is a youtube and photo of what I'm talking about:
Arrows pointing where it is not clearing
Hack off the bosses!
- Torque Wrench
1 x 038129713AJ OR 038129713AG
The raised side goes towards the intake manifold with the indented side going towards the head
After Market Options
This is what I ended up with eventually (cam facing) and ended up modifying the inlet to be a 90 into the I/C.
Photo of modded
1.6na - 1.9tdi capable
NOTE: Before you start see the EGT Probe section below
I couldn't find the newer style as readily as the older style. I got a newer one for if I had to switch to it down the road.
- VW; W42-011-294-103B 21-2
- Use high-temp (2000 F) anti-seize on bolts to hold the copper exhaust nuts which are to be torqued @ 25nm (18ft lb)
If using the AAZ exhaust manifold you position the turbo higher; thus, allowing to drain to the block instead of the oil pan.
There are TWO types of AAZ exhaust manifolds that work for this.
The older trapezoid and the newer triangle, both will work; however, some notes regarding the two.
OLDER - Trapezoid - Four Hole Unit - This will mount a K14 turbo stock without modification P/N 068-129-591G
NEWER - Triangle - Three Hole Unit - This will mount a K03 or K03 hybrid stock turbo without modification. P/N 028-253-033R
AAZ Exhaust Comparison
- 1 x 068-129-591G - MK1 exhaust manifold trapezoid flange
- 8 x N90085001- Copper plated exhaust manifold nut (8 per manifold) @ 25nm (18ft lb)
- 8 x N90095501 - Exhaust manifold OE washer
- 4 x 028-129-589B Exhaust Manifold Gasket.
- 12mm socket
- Torque wrench
- Permatex Ultra Copper
- Blue LocTite
Per Libby: "The metal ring on the exhaust manifold gaskets can face either the head or the manifold and in fact, two *should* face the head and two should face the manifold. There is a horizontal line of symmetry through the exhaust manifold, but if you place a vertical line through the fastener holes, the ports are offset 4-5mm toward the center of the engine. In other words, the two ports on the pulley end of the head are offset toward the flywheel and the two at the flywheel end of the head are offset toward the pulleys. The exhaust gaskets need to be oriented so that the offset is the correct direction. Furthermore, if you look where the gasket surrounds the stud, there is a skinny side and there is a side that has more material. The skinny side should be oriented closer to the intake manifold."
Then a light smear of permatex copper on both sides of the exhaust manifold gaskets
Here is how the gaskets should look orientated before the permatex sealer
EGT Probe Install
IPDATE; The below tap location works, but so does tapping the above stud when imused on an AHU. I wasn't aware then. Verified by Karl M.
ABF Serpentine Setup
This bracket and setup, WILL keep your alternator lower than the deck-lid; thus, the arm on the IP being the only possible interference. That interference though is negligent, as you just trim the foam for clearance of the throttle arm. However, if you need to cut-out the deckled here's a File:Andrew Libby Engine Lid Template.pdf template for you.
Since I don't have power-steering nor do I have air-conditioning, I can simplify my setup and make it more reliable with a serpentine setup rather than a v-belt system.
This can be accomplished via various methods as mentioned below. I went the ABF way
He makes a custom bracket, that's really beautiful, but if you want to source / find your own VW specific parts (p/n 028903143AD) read these threads:
The Alternator I ended up using was an ABF Bosch reman 90a - AL0187X (VW # 028 903 025 P)
iABED Industries ABF Bracket
Alternator installed with the bracket and pulley's installed.
Turbo & Boost Controller
This covers mostly wastegate turbos, for VNT based solutions, see the Performance Parts page.
Read this on how to hookup
This is one of the "variables" that varies for what you want. The most common turbos tend to be:
- K14 ; fits trapezoid AAZ exhaust manifold - about 10psi without a boost controller . Max 18-20psi with a boost controller - This was my initial choice and turbo used for Betsy's initial conversion. I later went GT2052, as I put larger DLC764 nozzels on.
- K03 & K03 Hybrid ; fit triangle AAZ exhaust manifold
- GT2052; requires slight mod for the AAZ 3hole manifold or an adaptor plate for the trapezoid 4 hole AAZ exhaust manifold
- Holset HE 200; requires adaption