Difference between revisions of "Solar & House Battery Setup"
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+ | {{#seo: | ||
+ | |title=Vanagon Diesel Solar Information | ||
+ | |titlemode=append | ||
+ | |keywords=Vanagon Solar, Diesel Vanagon Solar, T25 Solar, T3 Solar | ||
+ | |description=Vanagon Diesel Solar Information | ||
+ | }} | ||
+ | |||
== Solar & House Battery Setup == | == Solar & House Battery Setup == | ||
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[http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=452520&highlight=charge+control+panel http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=452520&highlight=charge+control+panel] | [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=452520&highlight=charge+control+panel http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=452520&highlight=charge+control+panel] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:Westfalia-Solar-Charge.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Based on the above circuit here is my setup | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:Betsy Solar Setup-a.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:Betsy Solar Setup-b.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:Betsy Solar Setup-c.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Updated shore-power and maintainer | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:BetsySolarChargeProMariner.jpg]] | ||
=== Voltage Regulator === | === Voltage Regulator === | ||
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When you add connections inline in wiring, you should try to always make the load end the male, the feeder the female. That way when you disconnect it, or if it ever comes apart by itself, you don't have an exposed hot male tip hanging around. Having the shielded female on the hot side means that that hot connector is covered when it's disconnected. | When you add connections inline in wiring, you should try to always make the load end the male, the feeder the female. That way when you disconnect it, or if it ever comes apart by itself, you don't have an exposed hot male tip hanging around. Having the shielded female on the hot side means that that hot connector is covered when it's disconnected. | ||
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==== Aux Battery Voltage Measurement ==== | ==== Aux Battery Voltage Measurement ==== | ||
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− | ==== | + | ==== Odyssey ==== |
− | + | I chose Odyssey for Betsy's battery manufacture of choice | |
− | [http://www. | + | [http://www.odysseybatteries.com/mainpages/batteries.htm Odyssey] - PC1200MJT recommended for starter, the PC1500 & PC1750 for under the seats |
− | + | [http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=602412&highlight=odyssey+1750 my Odyssey PC1750 TheSamba Post] | |
− | + | Odyssey PC1200 - LHW - 7.87 x 6.66 x 6.80" | 199.9 x 169.1 x 172.7mm | 38.2lbs | 42(Ah 20Hr) | |
− | + | Odyssey PC1750 - Group 65 - LWH - 11.83 x 7.20 x 7.43" | 300.5 x 182.9 x 188.7mm | 58lbs | 74(Ah 20Hr) | |
=== Indel ASU Fridge === | === Indel ASU Fridge === | ||
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[http://www.indelwebastomarineusa.com/Products/Fridges_and_Freezers/us/html/8147.html Cruise49] | [http://www.indelwebastomarineusa.com/Products/Fridges_and_Freezers/us/html/8147.html Cruise49] | ||
− | + | === Propex Heater === | |
+ | |||
+ | [http://www.westyventures.com/propex.html Westy Ventures] - Karl is your guy for Propex! | ||
− | + | === Solar Panels === | |
− | + | ==== CURRENT - Hightop Rack ==== | |
− | + | I'm reusing the same Zamp Solar 80w panel used on my PopTop and placing the panel rear of hightop and a MightyMax 150w panel on the front slant. | |
− | + | '''230w total!''' | |
− | === | + | The Front Solar Rack & Solar (150w) |
+ | |||
+ | [[File:BetsyFrontSolar.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:BetsyFrontSolar2.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | The Rear Solar Rack | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:BetsyHighTopRearSolarPanelRack.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Rear 80w panel installed | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:BetsyHighTopRearSolarPanel.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== OLD - Luggage Rack ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | I used Zamp Solar's 80w Airstream panel 20x40 as seen [http://www.zampsolar.com/rv-solar-kits/airstream-solar-rv-kits/ here] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Here are some photos of my project | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:BetsySolar-panel-a.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:BetsySolar-panel-b.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:BetsySolar-panel-c.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:BetsySolar-panel-d.jpg]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== External ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Because my fridge pushes too much on the City Water hook-up that was removed. Instead, I bought a City Electrical Box from [http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_1357_1413/110-volt-ac-camper-electrical-hook-up-box.html Van-Cafe] and hollowed it out and placed an external RV connector: | ||
− | + | [[File:Betsy-solar-external.jpg]]] | |
− | + | The external RV port goes by may names, but if you search for [http://www.zampsolar.com/product/roof-sidewall-solar-port/ ZS-RV-ROOF/SIDEWALL] you should find it | |
=== Stock Circuit Changes === | === Stock Circuit Changes === | ||
Stock Fuse 3 runs the dome lights, stereo, and other components. This should be routed to the aux. | Stock Fuse 3 runs the dome lights, stereo, and other components. This should be routed to the aux. | ||
+ | |||
+ | == Comments == | ||
+ | <comments /> |
Latest revision as of 01:10, 13 February 2019
Contents
Solar & House Battery Setup
PDXWesty Solar Setup
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=452520&highlight=charge+control+panel
Based on the above circuit here is my setup
Updated shore-power and maintainer
Voltage Regulator
This is required to pump up 14.1v+ for any AGM or Deep Cycle battery.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=363115&highlight=voltage+regulator+15v
Alternator Charging Relay
The Yandina voltage regulation (blue wire) is used with AGM to limit the charging voltage to 14.2 volts or less. Apparently, AGM batteries don't like higher voltages.
Aux Battery
Connectors / Wiring
When you add connections inline in wiring, you should try to always make the load end the male, the feeder the female. That way when you disconnect it, or if it ever comes apart by itself, you don't have an exposed hot male tip hanging around. Having the shielded female on the hot side means that that hot connector is covered when it's disconnected.
Aux Battery Voltage Measurement
Voltage Reading | State Of Charge |
---|---|
12.84 Volts or higher | 100% |
12.60 Volts | 75% |
12.18 Volts | 50% |
11.88 Volts | 25% |
Odyssey
I chose Odyssey for Betsy's battery manufacture of choice
Odyssey - PC1200MJT recommended for starter, the PC1500 & PC1750 for under the seats
my Odyssey PC1750 TheSamba Post
Odyssey PC1200 - LHW - 7.87 x 6.66 x 6.80" | 199.9 x 169.1 x 172.7mm | 38.2lbs | 42(Ah 20Hr)
Odyssey PC1750 - Group 65 - LWH - 11.83 x 7.20 x 7.43" | 300.5 x 182.9 x 188.7mm | 58lbs | 74(Ah 20Hr)
Indel ASU Fridge
Propex Heater
Westy Ventures - Karl is your guy for Propex!
Solar Panels
CURRENT - Hightop Rack
I'm reusing the same Zamp Solar 80w panel used on my PopTop and placing the panel rear of hightop and a MightyMax 150w panel on the front slant.
230w total!
The Front Solar Rack & Solar (150w)
The Rear Solar Rack
Rear 80w panel installed
OLD - Luggage Rack
I used Zamp Solar's 80w Airstream panel 20x40 as seen here
Here are some photos of my project
External
Because my fridge pushes too much on the City Water hook-up that was removed. Instead, I bought a City Electrical Box from Van-Cafe and hollowed it out and placed an external RV connector:
The external RV port goes by may names, but if you search for ZS-RV-ROOF/SIDEWALL you should find it
Stock Circuit Changes
Stock Fuse 3 runs the dome lights, stereo, and other components. This should be routed to the aux.
Comments
<comments />