Conversion Related
This page will relate to information specific to fitting a VW Diesel TDI Engine into a vanagon. If applicable to an AAZ that's mentioned too.
Contents
- 1 Reference Material
- 2 Diesel Vanagon/T3/T25 Donor List
- 3 Cooling System
- 4 Engine Electrical
- 5 Engine Mechanical
- 6 Engine Carrier Bars & Brackets
- 7 Engine Mounts
- 8 Transmission
- 9 TDI Clutch Upgrade
- 10 Intake
- 11 Exhaust Manifold
Reference Material
- Here is my YouTube playlist of videos to this page. There's not as many videos as I initially thought. I think videos can move a bit quick and allow a miss of detail. That and uploading a large video over mifi is a challenge ;)
Part Reference
TDI Conversion Kits
Part Vendors
Conversion Part Vendors
Service Manuals
- Bentley; ISBN 10: 0837603668
Social Media & Forums
Social Media
FaceBook has most of those groups
- Vanagon Owners Group - Overly moderated and free speech/thought is NOT encouraged.
Diesel Vanagon/T3/T25 Donor List
This is a list of items that you will need to source from an 82' or 83' USA diesel Vanagon or look over the pond at T3s to fit a 1z/AHU engine
- Diesel Vanagon oil-pan & oil filler tube
- Diesel Vanagon Transmission Bell Housing to allow 50 degree mounting
- Diesel Vanagon Transmission Flywheel & Clutch (to later identify the TDI TDC mark)
- Diesel Vanagon engine mount brackets; mostly the passenger side mount bracket. You may decide to change the driver side mount for clearing a larger turbo than a K03 or K03 hybrid.
- Diesel Vanagon engine carrier bars, unless you decide to use the FAS Carrier Setup
Cooling System
Prerequisites
Coolant System - THIS allows the heart to beat and not overheat and die. It's ESSENTIAL to be in tip-top condition! Your diesel Vanagon's coolant system is HOW old? And you want to do WHAT type of conversion? Do this first if you haven't already!
Aux Oil Cooler
1.6na - 1.9tdi capable
Reference
P/Ns
Choose an Oil Cooler:
- 1x 028117021E - oil cooler V6 4Motion Cooler - Good for Stock AHU engines
- 1x 028117070B - oem cooler seal. The febi one sucked
- 1x 038117021B - oil cooler for a 2.0 TDI engine - Good for Enhanced AHU Engines
- 1x 038117070B - oem cooler seal.
Get the tube & nut; same for both O/Cs
- 1x 028115721B - union tube
- 1x 068115723 - hexagon nut; ADC,AAZ,ABA,; AHU,1Z
Installation
This is pretty simple just slide it over the (028115721B - union tube) into the oil-filter assembly. The ports will face left of the engine indicated in the photo below. If you look at the top of the cooler and inside the flange you'll see the 'oil' feed line hole. Those basically need to match up.
Then place the oil-cooler over it and attach with the (068115723 - hexagon nut)
Photo
End result:
This is what a 2.0 TDI O/C with Karl's moddification done installed looks like:
Aux Oil-Cooler Modification
The default DV aux oil-cooler doesn't allow for constant flow of coolant. Only when the thermostat opens.
This is kinda silly since all the newer diesels implemented a better setup.
Therefore, this SHOULD be REQUIRED for all DV owners.
References
Implementing
Seeing is believing like they say. It also helps visualize what has to happen. This was indeed the case with me!
Karl M. @ Westy Ventures drew this up to explain what's required for the modification that he explains in TheSamba post.
For the Tee you can search ebay for sometrhing along: Coolant Hose T Fitting Radiator Hose T Fitting Hose Splice 1" X 1" X 5/8" VW has one under p/n N90693001
Which should look like this:
If you prefer a Y based solution, go to Heater Craft
For attaching the hoses make sure to use rolled-edge SS clamps, as they don't cut into the hose as traditional hose-clamps do.
Fot the 1/4” restrictor you can use a fender washer with a 1/4" hole and a 1.25" OD
Engine Electrical
Because this is a lot of media I will break this into sub pages
AHU
Good information for an AHU setup
TheSamba - Simplified TDI electronics for AHU conversion ?
ALH
Injection Pumps
Came in two variations :
- 10mm head - manual transmission
- 11mm head - automatic transmission
Engine Mechanical
Injection Pumps
There's a few builders, I suggest finding one that you feel comfortable with who you get warm fuzzies from.
Also posting on their FaceBook Group
Injection Pump Builders
Giles Also has a great reputiation
Dieselmeken AB Also has a great reputiation
WestyVentures - Karl M. has a reputation of building mTDI pumps based off a 4BT Cummins VE Injection Pump
Many hobbyists also use a Land Rover 300TDI Injection Pump modded setup. William Roberts on the TDI FB groups is popular person to obtain a LR300TDI
Possible 4bt pumps that would need modding; 0460424049, 0460424078
The pump I obtained was from Westy Ventures.
AVOID: HANs aka Prothe which has had more junk than any VW vendor
Injection Pump DYI
4bta
VWDiesel.net - Need clarification on using a 4BT Injection Pump for a MTDI
LR300TDI
TDIClub - building a tdi-m rover pump
VWDiesel.net - Want to build an m-TDI how?
Tuning
A mTDI injection pump is really simple to tune!
You just need:
These two for IP fuel screw & nut
- 13mm wrench
- 6mm wrench fuel screw adj (CW = more fuel)
These for idle nut
- 10mm deep socket
- 1/4" rachet
- 1/4" rachet extension
- 1/4" rachet swivel head
This for idle screw adj (CW = more idle)
- Long Flat Head Screw Driver
This is for boost controller (MBC)
- Allen key for your Master Boost Controller (MBC)
- Ganja
Engine Carrier Bars & Brackets
1.6na - 1.9tdi capable
Ah carrier bars. So, there's the 82' style which was an one-off in the USA and then 83+ which was when the engine got pushed back roughly 2" towards the rear to accomodate for a longer WBX transmission.
When you have an 82' diesel, it make sense to keep that arrangement. It's also been argued by some the 82' style allows easier access for working on the engine, as it's not 2" closer to the rear.
Upgraded 82' Bars
It's known that the 82' bars provide more vibration which some will argue. Myself when I researched the interwebz the general consensus was that they are not as good with vibrations compared to the newer 83' style carriers. Most people don't even notice a real difference. However, with my physical health, I will do whatever I can to make it more comfy.
Also, the cross-member that connects the two carriers that goes over the oil-pan is a very weak link. I have read where others have used a stonger tube bar to help it from twisting over. Because the 83' carriers don't have the rubber bushings on the ends there's no requirement for the cross member bar.
That said, I went with 83' style bars, but just not ANY 83' bars though, Tony @ TSI-Engeering found on TheSamba makes. He also makes a 50' degree DS mount to clear the turbo. I didn't realize that when I bought my DS mount.
I got a set of his 83' 2WD Carrier bars and then moved the motor brackets (had him lightly mark them where he installs) and then moved it towards the front of the van 2". It mounted perfectly!
I then installed his Isolator Mounts which use VW P/N 357199402BMY (Meyle has a better fitment with the isolator bracket I've read).
This allows for a more modern and easily found engine mount; searches will present it as a motor/transmission mount. It appears it was more widely used as a transmission mount.
Reference
- Tony @ TSI Engineering 2WD Carrier Bar Reference Document
TSI Carrier Install
Bars Installed
Bracket View
Front Carrier Mount (no rubber!)
P/Ns
Driver Side Mount
This has a little more 'wiggle' room with part variations
There's essentially two washers and one bolt per mounting point (4 mounting points).
- 4x N01024222 (M8X25) or N0102478 (M8X35) based on fitment
- 4 x N01224111 - spring washer
- 4 x N01152520 - washer
- 1 x N10155207 - M10 nut
Passenger Mount
- 3 x N0102584 - bolt
- 3 x N0122422 - washer
- 3 x N01152711 - spring washer
- 1 x N10155207- M10 nut
Driver Side Bracket
If you use a larger turbo you'll need to fabricate a bracket that'll fit it.
There are options though:
- EPYTEC 1z conversion mount - This is what I ended up with.
- Tony @ TSI Engineering - I would have went this route if I knew he made those along with the carrier bars!
Photos
Driver Side
Driver Side Stock 82' Diesel Vanagon engine bracket
Passenger Side
Passenger Side Stock 82' Diesel Vanagon engine bracket
Engine Mounts
1.6na - 1.9tdi capable
Generally speaking, if you plan to have a larger turbo than a K03 or K03/04 hybrid such as a GT2052 or VNT20 turbo, you'll need to modify the driver side motor mount.
One can be custom made if fabrication skills exist. Or one can buy something already available and modify it to suit your needs. When I started my project, I didn't have fabrication skills as I later developed.
Driver Side Engine Mount Options
- EPYTEC 1z conversion mount - This is what I ended up with.
- Tony @ TSI Engineering - I would have went this route if I knew he made those along with the carrier bars!
Epytec
I ended up purchasing the Epytec motor mount which is stout and works out of the box for a K03 / VNT15 turbo.
However, it has it's flaws which are easily corrected if done right.
The two issues with this motor mount are
1.) They bent and shaped the mount properly, but failed to fill the bend/divets with weld filler to prevent cracks.
The photos below help show what I'm talking about.
2.) The bracket has a hump which is pointless that I see. It hits all the larger wastegate turbos. The area circled
Hack off the hump!
Now put something thick in it's place that's not as high up! This is raw to give an idea of what to do. After you weld something clean it up and repaint!
The change I did gave me a 0.25" of space between the wastegate and the mount. Perfect!
Engine Isolator Mounts
Research
One method I was looking at was using SAAB Hydraulic mounts as seen here
Frank Grunthaner SAAB Hydraulic mount setup
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=403215&highlight=ahu - rsxr - Saab engine mounts
I then discovered Tony Sanchez (TSI Engineering) who makes Syncro and 2wd 83+ carrier bars.
Now, this got me thinking about what the differences between 82' and 83' style carrier bars.
The newer 83+ bars move the motor brackets that are welded on the carrier bars back towards the rear of the van. This was done to allow for longer transmissions in the later years.
However, no one makes 82' style new carrier bars. To me the newer style is ideal for the following reasons:
- They are solid mounted at the end of the carriers and not rubber NLA (yet supposedly accesible) bushings
- There is no need for a cross member across the oil-pan to help 'stablize' it.
- Supposedly the newer bars help reduce vibration which for a diesel is high on my list.
I have a set of TSI Engineering bars, which I plan to remove the motor bracket mounts and move them in position as where they would be on the 82'
Transmission
1.9td - 1.9tdi capable
One thine to note about transmissions.
- 1980 - 1982 - Vanagons placed the engine roughly 1.75" forward in earlier vans
- 1983 - 1991 - Vanagons placed the engine roughly 1.75" further rear compared to earlier vans.
This is primarly due to the transmission nose cones being different as such using different transmission mounts. And well different transmissions ;) 091 vs 094
Options
If starting with an 82' diesel origionally, you should upgrade the 3rib transmission or expect to blow shit up early on.
The easiest upgrade path for an 82' diesel vanagon is getting a DK transmission and putting the diesel vanagon bell housing on it.
DK
DK 091 (80-82 air-cooled Vanagon transmission).
WBX Transmission
If you have a later year (1983) Vanagon or newer it makes sense to stick to the 094 WBX transmission, as they are more stout than a 091 DK transmission.
You also won't need to adapt the transmission mount and linkage to fit the earlier setup.
However, due to the engine placement, which is based off the carrier bars. You have a few options here:
- Get 1983 DV Carrier bars from Tony at TSI
- Modify 1982 DV Carrier bars
- FAS Carrier Bar setup
- Go Custom!
Flipped Audi 5spd
Kit
Reference
This still kinda new, but to give some reading.
Brick-yard - Audi A4 Passat gear box install
Tranny Upgrade Notes
The TDI will not have any difficulty cruising at 3500rpms or even a bit higher. The only downsides are noise and a bit of a drop in fuel economy. If your preference is to cruise at 65, then gear 3,000 @ 65MPH. With that gearing you will be able to cruise at 70-75MPH if need be and will still be high enough in the rpms @ 65 to develop enough HP for cruising with a 'cushion'.
"Max torque on a stock TDI is around 2200 RPM. Max hp is around 3800 RPM. The TDI seems happiest in a Vanagon between 2600 and 2800 RPM. You are above the max torque, but well below the max hp. Your gearing and tires will dictate what speed that is." - Mark Ward - The Samba.
In this ratio, I would think a Westy would be more the range of 2700-2900rpm to account for the extra weight; ~700lbs last I heard!
Till a better place linkage differences here
Transmission Gear Calculator / Ratios
Here are some good calculators:
091 Transaxle to Engine Mounting
Reference
Terms
So, there's a ton of slang in this portion of the engine. Why? I don't know, people must be fucking bored.
- Service Manual | Slang | Abbv.
- Clutch Release Bearing | Throw Out Bearing | TOB
- Needle Bearing | Pilot Bearing | NB / PB
P/Ns
These should ideally be replaced if going through the trouble of redoing a transmission:
- 056105313C = needle bearing
- 091141165D = clutch release bearing or a more modern p/n 113141165B
- 016141181 = clutch release bearing guide tube, if needed
Mounting Bits
If you're transfering your DV components for the conversion, KEEP your diesel bell housing bolts that go into the engine.
If you're in Europe you can get the bolts from BrickWerks
If you're like myself in the USA, and starting with no previous DV parts to work with finding those bolts can be a real PITA. Fortunately, I got an awesome reply from syncroserge with the following information:
All bolts, no studs. ETKA is both inaccurate and incomplete on this. The starter bolts are in: Electrical Systems, Starter and Single Parts, diesel eng.
- 2x M12 x 1,75 x 122mm, N 040 350 1
The one on the clutch slave has no washer.
On the other side of starter washer is:
- A13 x 24 x2,5 , N 011 531 7
For the rest of the block. in Engine, Clutch, look under cylinder block with pistons, oil sump
Then next 2 are:
- M12 x 1,75 x 80mm, N 010 464 4, both with same washer as above.
At bottom of block,
- M12 x 1,75 x 100mm, N 010 458 2, washer same as above, nut:
- M12 x 1,75, N 011 030 4
Two bolts from bellhousing to oil pan (never found those in ETKA):
- M10 x 1,5 x 65mm, N 010 465 9, both with washers:
- A10,5 x 21 x 2, N 011 527 11
Clutch Cross Shaft Installation
The transmission didn't have a Cross Shaft when sent to AA, so we need to install one.
There are two available Cross Shafts that you can get from Weddle:
I went with the HD after reading about a Subaru H3 using it and others saying it's beefier than the OE from their visual inspection.
You'll also want parts
- 1x 113-141-165BS - Throw Out Bearing (TOB)
- 1x 113141707C - HEAVY DUTY 20MM BRONZE CLUTCH CROSS SHAFT BUSHING (OIL IMPREGNATED)
- 1x 113-141-711A - THIN BUSHING FOR 20MM CLUTCH CROSS SHAFT, GENUINE VW
- 1x 113-141-717A - 20MM WASHER FOR LATE CLUTCH CROSS SHAFT, NEW
- 1x 113-311-141A - LOCATING BOLT, 14MM LONG, NEW
- 2x N-012-420-1 - CIRCLIP FOR VW CLUTCH CROSS SHAFT, LATE (20MM)
Lightly grease the bushing and teeth of the shaft when installed without the TOB it'll look like:
Now, we're ready to install the TOB. Use a light coast of grease inside the TOB where it slips over the shaft. Make sure to slide it over in this orientation and then use a flat head screw-driver to pry the springs around the hooks:
Installed
Transmission Mount
This is the best time to install a T3 Transmission Mount (74mm)
There is NO easy way to remove the old bushing. I drilled holes, sawed, cut, etc. I eventually got the damn thing out. You'll want the end result like this:
Photos
Inner ring removed
Installed
Clutch Slave Cylinder
I replaced my Clutch Slave Cylinder while I was swapping the tranny out. I figured it was a smart move. It's P/N 251.721.263 and available at Van-Cafe
Removing the old slave-cylinder can be a real PITA. Removing the line from the cylinder even more so! Use a torch on the flar nut, let it cool spray penetrating oil, and repeat a few times tapping the flare-nut with a hammer. Eventually it'll come off OR do the flare-nut on the other end of the line.
TDI Clutch Upgrade
1.9td - 1.9tdi capable
TDI Input Shaft
USA best to get it through Chris @ T3Technique
Modified Bernd Jager TDI input shaft
Or
TDI Flywheel Cover Plate
Bernd Jager TDI flywheel cover plate
Clutch Choices
Sachs SMF
Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit - slightly more torque
LUK DMF (17-050)
LUK 17-050 - less vibration
This can be done on an AAZ or TDI (1Z, AHU, ALH) engines in a 50deg setup with a diesel vanagon bellhousing.
Marking TDC On the DMF
There's going to be two hurdles:
- Making clearance for the DMF flywheel with the diesel bell-housing
- Getting the proper TDC mark on the TDI Flywheel.
Get a modified TDI input shaft from Chris @ T3 Technique (ask him) or buy from Brickwerks here (input-shaft-t3-tdi) installed onto your transmission.
TDC The Engine before proceeding
First cover the input shaft and Clutch Cross Shaft with masking tape. Then do a light spray of white spray paint inside the bell-housing. A very light spray. Then let that dry.
The Diesel Vangon Flywheel & Pressure plate have what you need to do this. The Pressure Plate will have a V indicating where TDC should be set
Now, I installed the DV pressure plate & flywheel to the AHU engine. Here's a photo of the flywheel installed (forgot to do one with the PP on it). Remember the PP showen above has the V which is what we want to get TDC of the Crank Shaft
You'll at this point when the crank turns freely you'll want to mount up the DMF flywheel to the engine. Then mount up the tranny with the Bell Housing to the engine.
Once that's mated, try turning the crank. You "should" have interference. Go Clockwise till it stops then go CCW till it stops. Do this a few times.
Now remove your transmission & bell-housing.
You should see where the paint was rubbed indicating where to trim with a grinder to let the flywheel clear
Trim and remount and make sure it rotates cleanly.
Then remove the transmission and the DMF clutch/flywheel and put the DV flywheel/PP back on the engine.
Now mate up the transmission again so you have the BH mark for the Flywheel/PP. Turn the crank till you have TDC of the flywheel, then install your crank-lock tool from MetalNerd.
At this point TDC the IP and CamShaft as indicated above.
Once, everything is at TDC; crank, camshaft, and IP
You can now remove the DV flywheel/pressure plate
At this point you should install the pilot bearing lightly greased tapped into the spot on the engine
Install orientation
Installed
Install the TDI DMF Clutch/Flywheel.
Reinstall the transmission with the bell-housing.
Now, the BH will give a TDC mark of where the DV was that you now mark on your TDI DMF Flywheel/PP as indicated below;
Intake
1.9td - 1.9tdi
NOTE:
If using an AAZ exhaust manifold which points the turbo up higher; for better drainage to the block--if you drain to the block.
Get a PD130, NOT a PD150. The PD150 points towards the rear of the van. This "makes" sense till you realize it interfers with the turbo using the AAZ exhaust manifold that moves it up higher. The PD130 that points towards the front of the van is more ideal with the AAZ exhaust manifold.
If you use the AHU exhaust manifold and drain into the oil sump NOT the block, then you'll likely have clearance room to use the PD150.
Reference
- VW; W42-011-294-103B 21-6
- Use high-temp (2000 F) anti-seize on bolts; blue
- Bolt hardware installed at 25Nm (18ft lb) or close to that with a torque wrench
PD130
PD130/PD150 intake TheSamba article
The single large 3 bolt intake on the PD Intake Manifold that connect to your IC piping faces FRONT of the van typical on AHU install
These terms are used to describe the same thing
Driver side exit, right side , euro passat, longitudinal and is one of these part#
- 038129713AJ
- 038129713AG
The two above intakes would require an EGR delete down-pipe
However, if you have an intake with the p/n 028129713N which is from a Golf 1z setup would also work a-bit more restrictive with the air.
PD130 Install Notes
Intake PD130 038129713AJ
I wanted to replace the gasket and all mounting bolts
ID Parts Intake Manifold Cleaning Kit (AHU/1Z)
Which includes the parts laid out in:
ETKA 1997 Passat Diesel Intake Manifold
The kit itself includes what I need: gasket & mounting bolts
If obtaining a used intake (which is MOST likely the case there's various methods of cleaning it out.
In my case, I used multiple (two-three days twice a day)power-washings after they sat with oven-cleaner sprayed on their intake ports.
It should look like this before putting it on the long-block
PD130 hack off bosses
The turbo isn't clearing the PD130 bosses and mating cleanly.
Here is a youtube and photo of what I'm talking about:
Arrows pointing where it is not clearing
Hack off the bosses!
Tools
- Torque Wrench
- H6
P/Ns
1 x 038129713AJ OR 038129713AG
Photos
Gasket Install
The raised side goes towards the intake manifold with the indented side going towards the head
After Market Options
Darkside Developments
This is what I ended up with eventually (cam facing) and ended up modifying the inlet to be a 90 into the I/C.
DarksideDevelopment 1.9 TDI Custom Aluminum Intake Manifold
Exhaust Manifold
1.6na - 1.9tdi capable
NOTE: Before you start see the EGT Probe section below
I couldn't find the newer style as readily as the older style. I got a newer one for if I had to switch to it down the road.
Reference
- VW; W42-011-294-103B 21-2
- Use high-temp (2000 F) anti-seize on bolts to hold the copper exhaust nuts which are to be torqued @ 25nm (18ft lb)
NOTES
If using the AAZ exhaust manifold you position the turbo higher; thus, allowing to drain to the block instead of the oil pan.
There are TWO types of AAZ exhaust manifolds that work for this.
The older trapezoid and the newer triangle, both will work; however, some notes regarding the two.
OLDER - Trapezoid - Four Hole Unit - This will mount a K14 turbo stock without modification P/N 068-129-591G
NEWER - Triangle - Three Hole Unit - This will mount a K03 or K03 hybrid stock turbo without modification. P/N 028-253-033R
AAZ Exhaust Comparison
EGT Probe
P/Ns
- 1 x 068-129-591G - MK1 exhaust manifold trapezoid flange
- 8 x N90085001- Copper plated exhaust manifold nut (8 per manifold) @ 25nm (18ft lb)
- 8 x N90095501 - Exhaust manifold OE washer
- 4 x 028-129-589B Exhaust Manifold Gasket.
Tools
- 12mm socket
- Torque wrench
- Permatex Ultra Copper
- Blue LocTite
Gasket Install
Per Libby: "The metal ring on the exhaust manifold gaskets can face either the head or the manifold and in fact, two *should* face the head and two should face the manifold. There is a horizontal line of symmetry through the exhaust manifold, but if you place a vertical line through the fastener holes, the ports are offset 4-5mm toward the center of the engine. In other words, the two ports on the pulley end of the head are offset toward the flywheel and the two at the flywheel end of the head are offset toward the pulleys. The exhaust gaskets need to be oriented so that the offset is the correct direction. Furthermore, if you look where the gasket surrounds the stud, there is a skinny side and there is a side that has more material. The skinny side should be oriented closer to the intake manifold."
Then a light smear of permatex copper on both sides of the exhaust manifold gaskets
Here is how the gaskets should look orientated before the permatex sealer
Video
Photo
EGT Probe Install
Reference
Photos
IPDATE; The below tap location works, but so does tapping the above stud when imused on an AHU. I wasn't aware then. Verified by Karl M.