Betsy Bertha's m-TDI

About

So, my mechanical experience is limited to working on an 1984 gas VW Rabbit when I was 16 in 1996. I bought that car for a $1! Too bad it was totaled by a mini-van running a red-light.

I'm an IT (UNIX/OpenSource) engineer by trade, but I have been working on my 1982 1.6na diesel Westy since 2012. So, I'm geeky, but new to being a mechanic to my van as much as I can. Some stuff though (brakes/suspension) still gives me the willies, so I like to have someone more experienced do it; I had a bad experience with a brake caliper bolt flying off in m 84' Rabbit that scared the shit out of me!

In this regard, I hope to get a decent engine setup after learning it; then take it to get the conversion done.

Reference Material

Here is my YouTube playlist of videos to this page

Parts Related

Oem Wolf - Parts Finder

PartsBase.org 1997 VW Jetta - Part Information - 1Z/AHU

ID Parts TDI Parts Source

Bora Parts

Jim Ellis

Service Manuals

VW; W42-011-294-103B

Bentley; ISBN 10: 0837603668

Forums & Social Media

TDI Club

VW Diesel.net

TheSamba.com

Yahoo Diesel Vanagon Group

Yahoo TDI-conversion

VW T3 TDI Facebook Group

The Process

This is where I'm going to linking to my youtube videos regarding my steps of building up a new-long block AHU engine using a used complete engine from Quality German Auto in Ontario, CA as a reference. Then the used engine someday will be either a backup/spare or for another project.

Here is the new long-block and used engine:

Bora Parts 1z/AHU long-block & Quality German Auto used engine - video

Bora Parts 1z/AHU long-block - video

Preparation

I bought two engine stands identical in the process of mounting the new long-block and the used engine onto for my work.

I first had to remove the clutch from the used engine to allow clearance with my mounting hardware to the stand.

Clutch Removal of used engine

Tools: 9mm 12-point socket & 17mm standard socket

Removing Clutch - video

Here is a photo of the 9mm removal

Heater Hoses & Engine Bracket Removal

The assembly is held together by some brackets and one nut head which can be seen below center photo between the two black hoses

Now remove this final hose

Now remove the other coolant hose

Video

Here is the video I made of the part I took off:

Heater Hoses & Engine bracket - video

ECU / Wiring Harness

The side of the clutch top center there is a round cluster of wires and other plugs going into a central hub.

It looks like the below. I was able to disconnect everything but the glow-plug bar. I did the whole counter turn try and remove the plug, but no go. I just snipped the glow plug harness cable.

The rest I was able to unplug and the harness and all the wires came free:

What it looked like trying to get the two glow plug wires free

Videos

Video of what it looked like without the ECU wiring harness

ECU / Wiring harness - video

ECU / Wiring harness removed - video

EGR Removal

You don't need the EGR! From what I have been told in the TDI Conversion list was the following from Karl M. @ link Westy Ventures: "In many early TDIs, EGR contributes a lot to the clogging of the intake manifold and ports. Many have deleted or blocked EGR on TDIs to avoid the buildup of nasty gooey carbon. There also is no easy way to control it on an mTDI."

Service Manual Reference

Bentley 26.1 - Exhaust System/Emission Controls

• Bentley 26-6 - EGR

• Bentley 26-8 - 1Z / AHU specific

• Bentley 26-9 - Fig 13.

Videos

EGR Removal Video

EGR Removed Video

Power Steering Pump & Bracket Removal

The power steering isn't needed for the mTDI setup in my 82'. To get the used engine close to what I need to work with, I'm removing it.

That can be done via three bolts. Two at the bracket and one at the swivel.

Service Manual Reference

Bentley 48.15

Video

Removal Explaination - video

In the end after you remove the bracket bolts you'll just have the swivel bolt like below

Long Block (BoraParts) build-up

Engine Cover Plate

The new-long block didn't come with an engine cover-plate. This was purchased for the engine and the corresponding mounting hardware.

Reference:

Engine Belt Guards wiki notes

I initially started with the 028109143H cover plate and the two bolts and washers that set it into place (N01021226 & N0122265)

These two 10mm bolts install at a torque pressure of 7ft/lb

Cover Plate

Where my thumb points is where the bolts go to mount the engine cover to the long-block

You see how it's mounted from the side:

Mounted from front

Intake

Tools:

Torque Wrench

Allen Hex Bit - H6

References:

Intake Purchased wiki notes

VW; W42-011-294-103B 21-6

Use high-temp (2000 F) anti-seize on bolts; blue

Bolt hardware installed at 25Nm (18ft lb) or close to that with a torque wrench

Photos

Gasket Install

The raised side goes towards the intake manifold with the indented side going towards the head

Exhaust

NOTE: Before you start see the EGT Probe section below

Tools:

12mm socket

Torque wrench

Permatex Ultra Copper

Blue LocTite

References:

Exhaust Wiki Notes

VW; W42-011-294-103B 21-2

Use high-temp (2000 F) anti-seize on bolts to hold the copper exhaust nuts which are to be torqued @ 25nm (18ft lb)

Gasket Install

Per Libby: "The metal ring on the exhaust manifold gaskets can face either the head or the manifold and in fact, two *should* face the head and two should face the manifold. There is a horizontal line of symmetry through the exhaust manifold, but if you place a vertical line through the fastener holes, the ports are offset 4-5mm toward the center of the engine. In other words, the two ports on the pulley end of the head are offset toward the flywheel and the two at the flywheel end of the head are offset toward the pulleys. The exhaust gaskets need to be oriented so that the offset is the correct direction. Furthermore, if you look where the gasket surrounds the stud, there is a skinny side and there is a side that has more material. The skinny side should be oriented closer to the intake manifold."

Then a light smear of permatex copper on both sides of the exhaust manifold gaskets

Here is how the gaskets should look orientated before the permatex sealer

Video

Exhaust Manifold Installation Video

Photo

EGT Probe

Reference:

Wiki

Photos

Vacuum Pump

I had made a video, but I lost it. This is a very simple process, so I will just explain it here.

If you look at the end of the vacuum pump you'll see it has a slot. Then when you look into the engine hole a receiver for that slot. The goal is to lube it up a little with diesel oil so it's not totally dry. Then go in the angle of the slot. I usually turn clock-wise till it falls seated. One way of knowing if it's seated or not is you won't be able to see the greenish/gray O-ring as shown in the photos below. Then just tighten up the bolt and bracket. In order to get the bolt to even up enough to screw into the hole for the bracket, you may have to wiggle the bracket a little.

Tools:

13mm open-wrench

Reference:

vacuum pump wiki notes

Final photos of installation

CrankCase Breather Valve

Tools:

Allen Hex Bit - H6 @ 7ft lbs

Reference:

wiki notes

Blue coded thread-locker was used on tube mount bolts.

Photo

The red oval is the only bolts you have to tighten and the puck at the top goes into the breather hole

Oil Filter Flange

Tools:

Allen Hex Bit - H6

Reference:

wiki notes

Video

Youtube - Installing Oil Filter Flange

Here is the oil filter Flange installed:

Oil Filter Union

References:

wiki notes

This is maybe the easiest part to install. You just screw it in. I put some blue thread locker on it. It doesn't matter which end screws into the oil-filter.

End result:

Oil Cooler

References:

wiki notes

Installation

This is pretty simple just slide it over the (028115721B - union tube) into the oil-filter assembly. The ports will face left of the engine indicated in the photo below. If you look at the top of the cooler and inside the flange you'll see the 'oil' feed line hole. Those basically need to match up.

Then place the oil-cooler over it and attach with the (068115723 - hexagon nut)

End result:

The Details (my collected research before above work)

There's a decent article on TheSamba about what parts you'll need

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=410813&highlight=ahu+intake

What isn't needed from stock AHU Engine

If going mTDI the following are not required:

• electrical harness

• MAF sensor

• MAP sensor

• IAT sensor

• Injector #3 needle lift sensor

• Fuel temp sensor (inside IP)

• N75 & N18 valve

Air Filter

Donaldson filter G065433 install

Tranny Upgrade

The TDI won't have any difficulty cruising at 3500 or even a bit higher. The only downsides are noise and a bit of a drop in fuel economy. If your preference is to cruise at 65, then I would gear 3,000 @ 65MPH. With that gearing you will be able to cruise at 70-75 if need be and will still be high enough in the rpms @ 65 to develop enough HP for cruising with a 'cushion'.

Max torque on a stock TDI is around 2200 rpm. Max hp is around 3800 rpm. The TDI seems happiest in a Vanagon between 2600 and 2800 rpm. You are above the max torque, but well below the max hp. Your gearing and tires will dictate what speed that is. In this ratio, I would think a Westy would be more the range of 2700-2900rpm to account for the extra weight; ~700lbs last I heard!

Obtained a DK air-cooled transmission

VW Gear Ratio

File:VanagonTransRatios.xls

Engine Mounts

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=403215&highlight=ahu

rsxr - Saab engine mounts

Injectors

IDI Parts had the Bozzio Sprint 520's for around $175.00. They are supposed to be equivalent to the nozzles that came in the european delivered TDI's.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=276798&page=4

Clutch

Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit

get flywheel bolts

http://www.vw-t3-bus-shop.de/en/19-tdi-modification-parts-for-vw-t3-bus

http://www.vw-t3-bus-shop.de/en/adapter-plate-for-turbo-diesel-gearbox-on-golf-starter -this adapter nicer than the switch a motor since its recessed for the starter alignment

http://www.vw-t3-bus-shop.de/en/clutch-dorn/gearbo...ion-to-org

http://www.vw-t3-bus-shop.de/en/abdeckblech-zum-schwungrad-aus-edelstahl

Intercooler

Saab 900 intercooler

Water Pump Belt

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7673431#7673431

If you don't have A/C or PS, you can use the VR6 water pump pulley (028-121-031-E) and use the serp belt to run the Alt and water pump.

Oil Pump

P/N:

068 115 105 BP

NOTE: This is included in a long-block. I wasn't aware (my own ignorance) that a long-block included this. So, this is more a reference point for others in a similar boat.

Oil Cooler

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603839&highlight=ahu+water+pump

P/Ns:

027117021E cooler

028115721B tube

Exhaust

4 bolt trapezoid MK2 AAZ exhaust manifold P/N 068-129-591G

Intake

PD130 intake TheSamba article

The single large 3 bolt intake on the PD Intake Manifold that connect to your IC piping faces FRONT of the van typical on AHU install These terms are used to describe the same thing Driver side exit, right side , euro passat, longitudinal and is one of these part# 038129713AJ 038129713AG

Parts to Obtain List

NOTE: some of these parts you can obtain from the used engine. However, as I want to use the used engine for another project someday, I rather replace what I need for it on the new long-block. Everything below takes a Long-block 1Z/AHU as the base up to an installable engine.

I don't include pricing since that's a fluxing item whereas a part description / number won't.

Transmission

I'm starting with an 82' diesel, so I *have* to upgrade my transmission or expect to blow shit up early on.

I'd love to go 5spd, but not knowing enough to go this route, I have decided on a rebuilt DK (80-82 air-cooled Vanagon transmission).

I would assume "most" going to a TDI would really want to regear their transmission or swap out their transmissions.

Decision

Since each setup is different for me I decided on the following:

AA Transaxle - Rebuilder

My rebuild included:

3rd 1.12

4th 0.70

LSD

For my tires my RPM ratios look like:

4.571 FD @ 0.75 - 2863 @ 65mph

4.571 FD @ 0.75 - 3083 @ 70mph

Engine

Bora Parts 1Z/AHU Long Block

Belt Guards

Reference:

Partsbase.org

Bentley 15a-11

P/Ns:

028109143H - 1Z/AHU engine cover plate

Injection

The below are related to the injection system

Injectors

Injector #1 #2 #4 - 028130202P

Injector #3 - 028130202Q

Injector Holders

4 x VW p/n 028-130-206

Injector Nozzels

NOTE: What type of nozzles to use are more a personal preference of what you're give/take on the engine's performance you want to have.

Bosio PowerPlus 520 Injector Nozzles (set of 4)

Injector Fuel Lines

TDI AHU Steel Injector Fuel Lines - 028130301M/2M/3N/4N Injector Lines

Two sources I found new:

Hans AutoParts

PartsPlace Inc

Crank Case Breather Valve Assembly

Reference:

PartsBase.org - Ventilation for Cylinder Head Cover Diagram

P/Ns:

1 x 028129101D - PCV/CCV Valve (A3) (B4)

1 x 028103491J - CCV Breather Tube (A3 B4 AHU 1Z)

1 x N 90466301 - o ring for breather tube

1 x 028103500 - CCV Valve Rubber Boot

Misc Brackets / etc

Below will list associated brackets that will need to be placed on the AHU long-block including any fasteners/hardware.

Oil Filter Flange

Reference:

Parts Base

VW Repair: W42-011-294-103B p13-10

P/Ns:

053115417A - Oil filter flange; This flange has been used for all the 1.8-1.9 gas and diesel engines (AAZ, 1Z and early AHU). The difference being the later AHU adaption have two 10mm ports and one 12mm port (for the Banjo Bolt N0210717) instead of the three 10mm ports that the gas/ABA engines use. There's no 'real' way to know which you get by searching for the P/N. Your best luck appears to be searching for a "MK3 TDI oil filter flange" or maybe "AHU" also in the search string.

There's also two other indicators of the proper one you received.

First the third port is larger than the first two. (photo coming soon of comparison)

The second visual indicator is a bit more positive you got the right one from what I have read on the forums and Parts Base.

Within the below photo in the red circle is 028115436 - choke; M12X1,5; AAZ,,AHU,1Z which is what you want for the diesel engines. From my research, and what I received the first time, gasser engines do not contain this.

1x 028115436 - choke; M12X1,5; AAZ,,AHU,1Z

1x N0160243 or N0160241 - sealing plug; M10X1; ADD,AHU,1Z

1x N0138115 - o-ring; 10X13,5; ADD,AHU,1Z

2x N0903151 - socket head bolt with hexagon; socket head (combination); M8X25

1x N90425401 - socket head bolt with hexagon; socket head (combination); M8X40; ADC,ADD,ACC,; AHU,1Z @ 25Nm

1x 028115441C - oil filter seal

1x 068919081A - Oil Pressure Switch [OEM] (A3)(B4)

1x N0210717 - Oil Filter Oil Feed Line Banjo Bolt

Vacuum Pump

References:

Parts Base

VW Repair: W42-011-294-103B p13-10

P/Ns:

1x 028145101A - AHU vacuum pump

1x N0102336 - hexagon bolt; M8X28 (13mm @ 20nm)

1x N01224110 - spring washer; B8X15

1x 028905256 - bracket

1x 068145117B - Vacuum Pump Bottom Sealing Washer

Alternator

VWDiesel.net Thread: W Terminal on TDI Alt

A AL0184X 120a alternator will work and includes a W spade

1997 Jetta 1.9 TDI alternator 90a

P/Ns:

028903119AA - Alternator Pulley

028903143AB - Alternator bracket

Glow Plug Goodies

028971766 - VW Early TDI 2 Wire Glow Plug Harness (’96-01)

0250202022 - VW 1Z AHU ALH TDI Bosch OEM Glow Plug Set ('96-03)

Clutch

Sachs G60/VR6 Clutch & Flywheel Kit (A4)(A5) [sachg60vr6a4]

[http://www.vw-t3-bus-shop.de/en/clutch-dorn/gearbox-input-shaft-tdi-golf-tdi-clutch-conversion-to-org Modified Bernd Jager TDI input shaft[

Bernd Jager TDI flywheel cover plate

Oil Pump

P/N:

068 115 105 BP

Oil Cooler

Reference:

Parsbase.org

P/Ns:

1x 028117021E - oil cooler

1x 028115721B - union tube

1x 068115723 - hexagon nut; ADC,AAZ,ABA,; AHU,1Z

Coolant Pump

Reference:

Partsbase.org

P/Ns:

1 x 037-121-013A - Coolant Pump Assembly

1 x 037121121A - Pipe Union

1 x 1H0121687A - o-ring; 28,5X3,8

1 x 038-121-119B - o-ring; 50X4

1 x 028-260-821 - stud with shoulder

1 x 028-260-821D - hexagon bolt; M8X34

1 x 028-260-821A - stud with shoulder

1 x 028-260-821C - stud with shoulder; M8X17X24

2 x N 902-80-904 - hexagon head bolt (combi); M6X22

3 x N903-08-607 - socket head bolt with; inner multipoint head; M8X14

6PK1045 Serpentine Belt; Alternator

The Tank - Rocky Mountain Westy

VR6 Water Pump Pulley

P/N 028-121-031-E

Intake

Intake PD130 038129713AJ

I wanted to replace the gasket and all mounting bolts

ID Parts Intake Manifold Cleaning Kit (AHU/1Z)

Which includes the parts laid out in:

Partsbase.org 1997 Jetta Diesel Intake Manifold

The kit itself includes what I need: gasket & mounting bolts

If obtaining a used intake (which is MOST likely the case there's various methods of cleaning it out.

In my case, I used multiple (two-three days twice a day)power-washings after they sat with oven-cleaner sprayed on their intake ports.

It should look like this before putting it on the long-block

Exhaust

Reference:

Parsbase.org

P/Ns:

1 x 068-129-591G - MK2 exhaust manifold trapezoid flange

8 x 116-217-119-54 - Copper plated exhaust manifold nut (8 per manifold) @ 25nm (18ft lb)

8 x N900-95-501 - Exhaust manifold OE washer

4 x 028-129-589B Exhaust Manifold Gasket.

EGT Probe

Aircraft Spruce - 1/8 NTP

Turbo

4 bolt trapezoid MK2 AAZ exhaust manifold P/N 068-129-591G & flex down-pipe 3" & K14 Turbo

IC - A2A

SAAB Classic 900

Silicon Coolant Hose Kit

From BeeJee