Performance Parts
Here will be listed of performance / stronger than stock parts available for various setups.
CCV Mod
1z/AHU
This style uses the J tube to the lower of the block to the upper top CCV puck.
The origional tube was known to break and leak, and the later one as well (just a little better).
Another option is to block-off the lower CCV port on the engine block, and use an ALH (MK4) CCV puck that has only one port, as the ALH had it blocked by design.
Parts:
028-129-101-E ; ALH CCV Puck
028-127-311-A ; Gasket
063-103-113 ; Blocking plate
N-014-712-3 ; Cap Screws
N-012-241-10 ; Cap Screw Washers
Catch Can
If you're high boosting you may benefit with a Catch Can
The most common used is the Provent 200
Part Numbers
Catch Can 3931070550 found here
Check Valve 2400843621 found here
Filter Notes
Do NOT buy this filter: MANN ProVent 200 Ultra-High-Efficiency Oil Separator Element - LC5002x
If you do, it'll be too restrictive and oil will come out of your oil filler tube.
Instead get this filter:
MANN ProVent 200 Oil Separator Element - LC5001X - IDParts - LC5001x
I also have used the stainless steel mesh provent filter that is aftermarket with good results.
References
Install Notes
Plumb the CCV filter drain into the pan or if you got a metal oil filler tube that.
Below oil level, no check valve needed.
Above oil level, check valved required
Photos
Drain into return line
TDI (VE 1.9 1z,AHU,ALH,AFN)
Lifter / Cam Follower Upgrades
P/N 038-109-309C Can be used which was used on the later TDIs
Nozzles
Rods
H-Beam
Rosten has a long tried and true history
Rosten Performance H-Beam Connecting Rods
I-Beam
Reference
Integrated Engineering has had a bumpy rep with fitment in the 1.9 VE TDIs
Integrated Engineering Tuscan forged connecting rods
Pistons
Reference
OEM Sized
Standard ASV 79.51mm pistons OEM swap available at Cascade German
Part Numbers
- 038107065AA
- 038107065AB
Oversized
Oversized 0.5mm 80.00mm pistons available at Cascade German
Part Numbers
- 038107081AA
- 038107081AB
Improving Oil Galley Piston Cooling
TDI Club - Improving Oil Galley Piston Cooling
TDI Club - Implemented Oil Galley Piston Cooling Build
Improving TDI Oil Galley Piston Cooling Local Copy
Aftermarket Coolant Flanges
These are either cast aluminum or billet options of the plastic versions.
AHU
Side of block flange
ALH
4Y Flange
Amazon Cast Aluminum 038-121-121
End of Head Flange
or
Oil Cooler Adaptors
ALH spin on oil filter adaptor
VW Oil Coolers
Reference
P/Ns
Choose an Oil Cooler:
- 1x 028117021E - oil cooler V6 4Motion Cooler - Good for Stock AHU engines
- 1x 028117070B - oem cooler seal. The febi one sucked
- 1x 038117021B - oil cooler for a 2.0 TDI engine - Good for Enhanced AHU Engines
- 1x 038117070B - oem cooler seal.
Get the tube & nut; same for both O/Cs
- 1x 028115721B - union tube
- 1x 068115723 - hexagon nut; ADC,AAZ,ABA,; AHU,1Z
Installation
This is pretty simple just slide it over the (028115721B - union tube) into the oil-filter assembly. The ports will face left of the engine indicated in the photo below. If you look at the top of the cooler and inside the flange you'll see the 'oil' feed line hole. Those basically need to match up.
Then place the oil-cooler over it and attach with the (068115723 - hexagon nut)
Photo
This is what a 2.0 TDI O/C with Karl's moddification done installed looks like:
External Oil Coolers (Aftermarket)
When you push real power, your oil-temps can get to 250-260F pretty easy. For example, my high-top that's about 6000lbs with DLC764 nozzles and a GT2052 turbo, when pushing up an incline going 75mph can get to 250-260F oil-temps.
The larger stock fit options become insufficient and you need to cool externally.
There are plenty of options, but BrickWerks has come up with a good "done all the research" option for us.
Brickwerks - T3 Oil Cooler Kit the item number if the link changes is: T3-OC006
VNT Controllers for mTDI
Manual
GFB V2
GFB VNT Controller V2 - This is the way to go with a mTDI
Reference
http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manual%20Boost%20Controller.htm
You would use it with a Dawes Device Valve found here
Electric
Digiboost
DMN's Arduino VNT Controller
http://dmn.kuulalaakeri.org/vnt-lda/
VanBCGuy
https://github.com/vanbcguy/vntlda
3rd Party Goodies
ARP Bolts/Studs
Harmonic Balancer Bolts
Head Studs
NOTES: Some people will try to do one head bolt and stud at a time to prevent removing the head to fix a leak or be proactive before a HG leak. here is a TDIClub thread on doing it
My word of caution comes from personal experience by doing this on my AHU at 50deg when I noticed a HG leak on a HG test I did (turned bluish green). I figured this was a good "first" step before removing the head.
Now that said, the ARP studs torque position of #2 or the Bentley's torque sequence position of #1 (15a-13) which is on the passenger side of the cylinder head the side coolant flange on it attaching to the large octopus hose. If you look to the right of the stud hole, you'll see an oil passage. You can see the hump of it on the outside of the block, literally to the right of the headbolt hole. Now when you go to thread your stud & nut, my suggestion is tape the nut to your socket end lightly so it doesn't fall off. Then screw it on and when snug enough pull socket and tape off. It was just large enough NOT to fall into the block and hit the windage tray. I was able to retrieve it with a flexible 5mm magnet, but I believe the stud would have fallen into the block if dropped. So, just a FYI to all. Be cautious! And for the ARP studs, use T-handle allans to snug them, that way you can't accidently drop a bit or rachet shaft down that hole either!
Main Bearing Studs
P/N 202-5401 - confirmed - TDIClub
P/N 204-5408 - not confirmed, but supposedly works
Rear Main Seal
Oe
068-103-171F