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T3Technique

Performance Parts

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Here will be listed of performance / stronger than stock parts available for various setups.

CCV Mod

1z/AHU

This style uses the J tube to the lower of the block to the upper top CCV puck.

The origional tube was known to break and leak, and the later one as well (just a little better).

Another option is to block-off the lower CCV port on the engine block, and use an ALH (MK4) CCV puck that has only one port, as the ALH had it blocked by design.

Parts:

028-129-101-E ; ALH CCV Puck

028-127-311-A ; Gasket

063-103-113 ; Blocking plate

N-014-712-3 ; Cap Screws

N-012-241-10 ; Cap Screw Washers

VW-CCV-Block Plate.jpeg

Catch Can

If you're high boosting you may benefit with a Catch Can

The most common used is the Provent 200

Part Numbers

Catch Can 3931070550 found here

Check Valve 2400843621 found here

Filter Notes

Do NOT buy this filter: MANN ProVent 200 Ultra-High-Efficiency Oil Separator Element - LC5002x

If you do, it'll be too restrictive and oil will come out of your oil filler tube.

Instead get this filter:

MANN ProVent 200 Oil Separator Element - LC5001X - IDParts - LC5001x

I also have used the stainless steel mesh provent filter that is aftermarket with good results.

References

TheSamba

Install Notes

Plumb the CCV filter drain into the pan or if you got a metal oil filler tube that.

Below oil level, no check valve needed.

Above oil level, check valved required

Photos

Betsy-Rev3d.jpg

Drain into return line

Betsy-Rev3c.jpg

TDI (VE 1.9 1z,AHU,ALH,AFN)

Lifter / Cam Follower Upgrades

P/N 038-109-309C Can be used which was used on the later TDIs

Nozzles

Nozzle FAQ

Rods

H-Beam

Rosten has a long tried and true history

Rosten Performance H-Beam Connecting Rods

I-Beam

Reference

TDIClub

Integrated Engineering has had a bumpy rep with fitment in the 1.9 VE TDIs

Integrated Engineering Tuscan forged connecting rods

Pistons

Reference

TDI Club - TDI Piston Info

Local Copy - TDI Piston Info

OEM Sized

Standard ASV 79.51mm pistons OEM swap available at Cascade German

Part Numbers

  • 038107065AA
  • 038107065AB

Oversized

Oversized 0.5mm 80.00mm pistons available at Cascade German

Part Numbers

  • 038107081AA
  • 038107081AB

Improving Oil Galley Piston Cooling

TDI Club - Improving Oil Galley Piston Cooling

TDI Club - Implemented Oil Galley Piston Cooling Build

Improving TDI Oil Galley Piston Cooling Local Copy

VW Oil Coolers

Reference

P/Ns

Choose an Oil Cooler:

1x 028117021E - oil cooler V6 4Motion Cooler - Good for Stock AHU engines
  • 1x 028117070B - oem cooler seal. The febi one sucked
1x 038117021B - oil cooler for a 2.0 TDI engine - Good for Enhanced AHU Engines
  • 1x 038117070B - oem cooler seal.

Get the tube & nut; same for both O/Cs

1x 028115721B - union tube
1x 068115723 - hexagon nut; ADC,AAZ,ABA,; AHU,1Z
Installation

This is pretty simple just slide it over the (028115721B - union tube) into the oil-filter assembly. The ports will face left of the engine indicated in the photo below. If you look at the top of the cooler and inside the flange you'll see the 'oil' feed line hole. Those basically need to match up.

Then place the oil-cooler over it and attach with the (068115723 - hexagon nut)

Photo

This is what a 2.0 TDI O/C with Karl's moddification done installed looks like:

PD130TDI OC.jpg

External Oil Coolers (Aftermarket)

When you push real power, your oil-temps can get to 250-260F pretty easy. For example, my high-top that's about 6000lbs with DLC764 nozzles and a GT2052 turbo, when pushing up an incline going 75mph can get to 250-260F oil-temps.

The larger stock fit options become insufficient and you need to cool externally.

There are plenty of options, but BrickWerks has come up with a good "done all the research" option for us.

Brickwerks - T3 Oil Cooler Kit the item number if the link changes is: T3-OC006

VNT Controllers for mTDI

Manual

GFB V2

GFB VNT Controller V2 - This is the way to go with a mTDI

Reference

http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manual%20Boost%20Controller.htm

You would use it with a Dawes Device Valve found here

Electric

Digiboost

Digibooster

DMN's Arduino VNT Controller

http://dmn.kuulalaakeri.org/vnt-lda/

VanBCGuy

https://github.com/vanbcguy/vntlda

3rd Party Goodies

ARP Bolts/Studs

Harmonic Balancer Bolts

P/N 671-1006

Head Studs

P/N 204-4706

NOTES: Some people will try to do one head bolt and stud at a time to prevent removing the head to fix a leak or be proactive before a HG leak. here is a TDIClub thread on doing it

My word of caution comes from personal experience by doing this on my AHU at 50deg when I noticed a HG leak on a HG test I did (turned bluish green). I figured this was a good "first" step before removing the head.

Now that said, the ARP studs torque position of #2 or the Bentley's torque sequence position of #1 (15a-13) which is on the passenger side of the cylinder head the side coolant flange on it attaching to the large octopus hose. If you look to the right of the stud hole, you'll see an oil passage. You can see the hump of it on the outside of the block, literally to the right of the headbolt hole. Now when you go to thread your stud & nut, my suggestion is tape the nut to your socket end lightly so it doesn't fall off. Then screw it on and when snug enough pull socket and tape off. It was just large enough NOT to fall into the block and hit the windage tray. I was able to retrieve it with a flexible 5mm magnet, but I believe the stud would have fallen into the block if dropped. So, just a FYI to all. Be cautious! And for the ARP studs, use T-handle allans to snug them, that way you can't accidently drop a bit or rachet shaft down that hole either!

Main Bearing Studs

P/N 202-5401 - confirmed

P/N 204-5408 - not confirmed, but supposedly works

Rear Main Seal

Oe

068-103-171F

3rd Party

iABED VW827 T6061 Machined Rear Main Seal holder